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celebrate the solistice at beacon!


ivan

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Ivan, Thanks for your patience and leadership in getting my skinny white ass up that route. Never woulda kept it together were it not for your frequent words of encouragement and advice. You really do this shit for fun, huh?

Actually I was kinda wondering about the dearth of other people out there on Friday.. like aren't there supposed to be lots of other climbers out here too?

At least now I get to write my own BR story on the board and yes I do want to climb that rock when its dry (OK, just once) because at this point the fear has changed to pride and it feels pretty freaking great.

Yah, IMO the best way to keep warm at Beacon is to borrow the extra sweater in your partner's bag about half way up. It helps to be shaking uncontrollably with fear as your partner will prolly think you must be freezing yer ass off. Downside is that then you gotta focus and somehow stop the shaking freakies or else he's going to want his sweater back for sure.

Off-Topic but worthy comment: Damn I have new-found respect for rock climbers in general along with a better understanding of the reasons for doing it.

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.....I've been using the Sportiva Ventors in the meantime. I don't like the rubber on the Ventors however, which is odd given I mainly climb Sportivas. Going to have them re-done in whatever 5.10 is currently using.

 

I'm surprised not to like that shoe better as well, it's not just the rubber as it fits me poor as well. Sportivas have always been top-notch for me. Not this one. I already sent mine into get the $15 special 1/2 sole price they were offering that month (resoled by Yosemite bum in Evolve Trax rubber) before I could even stomach using them in the freaking gym or a practice boulder problem, they are marginally better. But for $25 dollars or whatever freak price we got them for....sigh...couldn't pass on that.

 

BTW, I just bought a bunch the last of the big-wide bigbros from US outdoor store in case you have any offwidth challenges coming up and just want to borrow mine instead of buy. They're significantly lighter than cams for flying to Red Rocks or NM too.

 

That big stuff tends to sit in the closet a lot for me.

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Snowed on and off but the rock was mostly dry with just a few went spots. There was not a single person there besides us all day. Good times :)

 

Dan too? Is this sickness contagious? It's spreading from JH and Ivan it appears. :lmao:

__________________________________________

 

Yah, IMO the best way to keep warm at Beacon is to borrow the extra sweater in your partner's bag about half way up. It helps to be shaking uncontrollably with fear as your partner will prolly think you must be freezing yer ass off. Downside is that then you gotta focus and somehow stop the shaking freakies or else he's going to want his sweater back for sure.

 

Ha ha! JH usually has extras in his car or pack too! BTW -THOSE HEAT PACKS JH USES ARE ON SALE AT COSTCO TOO RIGHT NOW. I saw like a whole stack of boxes for sale. Maybe I should have just bought a box: 1 less excuse to stay home and sit in front of the fire watching the wide screen wile it snows :-)

Edited by billcoe
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  • 2 weeks later...

looks like it'll be sunny on sunday (saturday'll do too if the forecast moves)- who's interested in climbing some soping wet (or maybe nice n' icy) rock? it'll be nice just to get out, even if it does turn into an aid fest...corner, one of da gulls, blow-me-out, whatever...

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Not for the winter time, I'm a lightweight when it comes to weather. Aid is a summer/fall activity for me. It's already a bit of gruelfest so I don't really like making it any harder than it already is. Kind of hoping the russians figured out how to make it a little less of a hassle.

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