Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
FBCC

Rumors of ice?? conditions update??

Recommended Posts

So my hike up to Lake Julius got changed to a Hubba Hubba day trip. It creaked and moaned at the base while we were racking up and even more when I got on it. Wet ice again. After knocking thru a plate, better ice was to be found on each swing. The brighter side was effortless foot placements. After the first pitch, the next step was poorly bonded verglas. with the fading daylight, we opted to go down instead of going around it.

 

Lillooet, here I come.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Update for day #2:

 

Umptanum is in for sure. The falls itself is only frozen on each side, but the drip opposite is frozen nice and so is the bowl behind the frozen drip. Lots of fun ice for screwing around. Oh, the gully by the falls is also filled with ice and another 2 minutes down the trail is more ice.

 

Any suggestions for tomorrow?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
or you could just drive to lillooet which is super fat

 

 

Would love to go to Lillooet, but the kids and wife won't let me get away that long this week.

Unless of course you are offering to drive me up there while I sleep on the way up and drive me back while I nap after our hard day of climbing :)

 

Funny thing is; it wouldn't be the first time I drove six hours each way for a day climb :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've updated the wastateice.net/Conditions.aspx page with this and other info, thx!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Went up to Der Leavenworth yesterday. No ice to speak of in Mountaineers Creek - assuming we found was I think were the proper walls. Surprisingly dry all around.

 

The two routes that formed last year on Dog Dome however are shaping up well. The Litter Box is on the left and climbs a cleft that is a summer rock route. It went yesterday at 3+ with a thin top out. Used a #1 and .75 Camalot and left a pin up high (and one in the snow down below) to protect the exit to the anchors. The Cat's Meow - a mixed affair on the right - felt like M5-6 WI4 (?) last year but looks a bit thinner - though climbable - with, of course, a scary top out.

 

My partner and I broke a hard-fought trail (1.5 hours to the climb!!) in there so someone ought to take advantage of it before it's buried again. Snowshoes are mandatory, as is a mystery cable crossing...bring your largest HMS-style 'biner and make it one you don't mind retiring as the cable can rough them up if you go fast. A 1" (?)pulley would be the bomb.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Went skiing today up at baker, on and around Mt. Herman. I saw alot of ice up there. Pan Dome falls is fat, as is East table three. Friends of mine skied over Herman Saddle yesterday and claim that death picnic is in, however we did not ski there today so I did not see for myself. There is alot of ice on and around Mt. Herman right now, and with the current forecast it shouldn't be going away, anytime soon. have fun

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yo yo yo! Any conditions update. Today Justin ( summerprophet ) and I went up to Chinook Pass. We didn't see anything on Forest Road 19. Various pictures:

n39203244_31218612_3465.jpg

n39203244_31218613_3798.jpg

 

Then we continued on to Union creek falls. Right side may go, ice was full of air and top looked sketchy, pretty wet. But hey, someone with more balls than us can go get it!

 

n39203244_31218618_5394.jpg

 

The view up:

n39203244_31218620_6035.jpg

 

Justin

n39203244_31218621_6343.jpg

 

 

Anyone want to go somewhere tomorrow?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

climbed white pine drool yesterday. short, but strenuous approach, with deep snow (~2ft with slow shoes) under breakable crust. Track is in now, so approach should be quick. Quite a bit of ice on the climb, with varying quality. Lots of snow on the lower angles sections, but the steep bits are nice. My battery was dead, but jared should have a picture of the wall.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

OK, So lets have it

 

Has anyone climbed Drury?

 

Oh' and while were at it how about an update on the status of the rest of Leavenworth?

 

Wenatchee River Climbs like the the Drip etc..?

 

Moutaineers Creek?

 

Icicle Canyon?

 

Snow Creek Wall?

 

Icicle Buttress?

 

the Rat Drainage?

 

Hubba Hubba Area?

 

Anyone know current conditions for any of these area or other specific climbs in Leavenworth?

Your input would be greatly appreciated

 

Thanks

Andy

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sorry, I have only been to a few climbs in the Leavenworth area so I don't know what every climb looks like, so I do not recognize what this climb is.

 

what is this?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

For the Icicle Canyon, top-outs on some of the climbs on Icicle Buttress leave much to be desired. While things are forming up low on south facing slopes, we need a good cold spell, maybe this week, to improve ice quality and adhesion to the rock.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

long range forecast for this week predicts warm temps around sw bc. judging by conditions from last weekend better bring fins and snorkel. friggin 4 hours of driving one way for some cold shower on ice (carls berg was gushing with water). marble was crowded as usual. btw- a note to newbs- the point is to get up the climbs, not to bring them down. i realize one has to learn somehow, but blindly hacking and demolishing the lines is just a bad form.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Shit Bob you actually drove up there...what did you expect it was above zero all week at 1300m..

 

Between you and trogdor on the forecasts is proly about right

 

LONG TERM...

CONFIDENCE IN THIS PERIOD WAS NOT OVERLY HIGH...ESPECIALLY FOR

THIS WEEKEND AND EARLY NEXT WEEK. HAVE GENERALLY WENT WITH THE

ECMWF SOLUTION. THE MAIN MESSAGE WAS THAT THE MEDIUM RANGE

SOLUTIONS HAVE BACKED OFF ON THE IDEA OF A MODIFIED ARCTIC FRONT

MOVING ACROSS THE REGION. DO NOT BE SURPRISED IF SOLUTIONS REVERT

BACK TO THE IDEA OF A MODIFIED ARCTIC FRONT MOVING ACROSS THE

AREA.

 

so as it is forecasted temps are not looking too great..ah well the snowboarding is phenomenal!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

lillooet is looking pretty good for north facing and higher stuff thru friday with highs 0 to +5 and lows around -5/-6. lower elevation/high volume/south facng stuff will probably be wet but with short days this temperature range can build good ice in the shaded aspects...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I talked to Rat yesterday... he had this to say:

 

leavenworth received a couple inches of snow on monday/monday night and quite a bit more fell with strong winds at higher elevations. it's settled a little bit but there is a lot of snow on both north and south facing rock slabs that could slide as temperatures warm. wet loose slides and slabs from are still definitely a concern.

 

as of today, drury was looking snow covered and rotten. the pencil has about 60-80' missing from the first pitch. both of these climbs get a lot of sun and the pencil has avy danger on both the approach and climb.

 

the problem is basically too much snow/moisture and not enough cold temperatures. that said, we've been out stabbing the turf and mud with some success. and tree skiing in the backcountry has been fine, if you're into that.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×