glassgowkiss Posted December 10, 2007 Share Posted December 10, 2007 there is a shit load of stuff formed up around Whistler/Pemberton/Duffey. Mystery Roach Motel was leadable. also rambles are in, including eagles ears. white blotter was also supposed to be in (maybe). also husume butters should be in nice shape. the farm is not in and it is not looking it would be up for this season (no water).lower down breakable crust makes travel painful on the shins, but higher up it's not a problem. a new secret crag is being developed in the area- photo by jia condon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fern Posted December 10, 2007 Share Posted December 10, 2007 I wouldn't totally count on White Blotter unless you are very tuff. It did not look very substantial. The Plum area has lots of ice. But also lots of running water. A degree warmer and it would have been spitting chunks and death-trap. A degree colder and it would have been Rockies fat-pants. Breakable crust approach was un-fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weekend_Climberz Posted December 10, 2007 Share Posted December 10, 2007 Marble has a good amount of climbable ice too. :tup: Season's open. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glassgowkiss Posted December 10, 2007 Author Share Posted December 10, 2007 stuff like husume is in prime condition- a perfect training ground for alpine adventures. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don_Serl Posted December 10, 2007 Share Posted December 10, 2007 surprisingly, Sumallo Bluffs stuff hasn't really come in much since Drew's pictures from a week ago. B-K would be minimally climbable, as are lower sections of Landmark (but not the crux curtain). Crunchy Frog is sporting quite a bit of ice, but big gaps too. Mess seems pretty dry... in the east end of the Fraser Valley, pretty much bugger all is climbable cuz of low altitude. interestingly, Medusa looked pretty good on the drive by on the way back towards town (heard the same from Adrian B earlier), but nothing else at Flood was 'in'. I heard Rambles Centre was fine. nice to have an early start - I can't remember the last time ice was 'in' in SWBC by Dec 10th! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted December 10, 2007 Share Posted December 10, 2007 Ice was "in" in Hope last year by late November... this season is starting a week or two late! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glassgowkiss Posted December 10, 2007 Author Share Posted December 10, 2007 all photos by Jia Condon and www.jiaproductions.com - check out his pics! i am not giving a location of this climb due to the fact it needs a redpoint ascent. however i would like to point out how good mixed conditions are. we also don't need to travel to the rockies to get out kicks this year! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne Posted December 11, 2007 Share Posted December 11, 2007 In case anyone is wondering , He will NOT tell you where those climbs are located so dont ask , because he is not saying where they are! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted December 11, 2007 Share Posted December 11, 2007 The most secret crag is the one having the most fun? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glassgowkiss Posted December 11, 2007 Author Share Posted December 11, 2007 In case anyone is wondering , He will NOT tell you where those climbs are located so dont ask , because he is not saying where they are! sorry about this. however if you go on Husume you will enjoy the same conditions. This route in particular is a work in progress and I think it would be unfair if someone scooped us to it, particularly after the initial effort. I would encourage people and do mixed routes- since they are in fantastic conditions right now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted December 11, 2007 Share Posted December 11, 2007 so i gotta ask bob, why the fuck are you posting pics on a website if you don't want to publicize it?? One big fucking duh to you... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glassgowkiss Posted December 11, 2007 Author Share Posted December 11, 2007 so i gotta ask bob, why the fuck are you posting pics on a website if you don't want to publicize it?? One big fucking duh to you... that the conditions are primo- that counts in mix/ice- one big fucking.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
northvanclimber Posted December 11, 2007 Share Posted December 11, 2007 i think it's called a "tease". duh. looks like the conditions are good. let's all just get out and climb! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted December 11, 2007 Share Posted December 11, 2007 so i gotta ask bob, why the fuck are you posting pics on a website if you don't want to publicize it?? One big fucking duh to you... that the conditions are primo- that counts in mix/ice- one big fucking.... go ahead and say "one big fucking duh" back...a simple note that "conditions are primo" would have sufficed... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weekend_Climberz Posted December 11, 2007 Share Posted December 11, 2007 You swing'n tools now RuMR? The snow coverage is pretty thin right now, so there's some cold pebbles you could wrestle if ice ain't your thang. The colder it is, the better the sending percentage is, right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted December 11, 2007 Share Posted December 11, 2007 i got yer swingin' tool right here! No, believe it or not, i'm hangin' up my rock shit until for spring for skiing...blech... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weekend_Climberz Posted December 11, 2007 Share Posted December 11, 2007 BC or lift served? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted December 11, 2007 Share Posted December 11, 2007 lift...my oldest is racing, my younger one is in ski school... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weekend_Climberz Posted December 11, 2007 Share Posted December 11, 2007 Bitch'n. I'd be a much better skier if I'd started that young. Being hauled behind a car along a flat road in Kansas doesn't really count, either :? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted December 11, 2007 Share Posted December 11, 2007 prolly good training for waterskiing though~? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Weekend_Climberz Posted December 11, 2007 Share Posted December 11, 2007 Yeah, well, I never could get up on water ski's either. Basically, skiing downhill is not my strong suit, but going uphill, now I can do that all day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Winter Posted December 17, 2007 Share Posted December 17, 2007 Anyone have any updates from the Lilloet area from this past weekend? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted December 17, 2007 Share Posted December 17, 2007 Yeah, raining and +5C on Sunday. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spike1970 Posted December 17, 2007 Share Posted December 17, 2007 (edited) Just added a couple of pics of the Mystery Roach near Whistler from yesterday. Look in ice climbing photos. Climbs on the other side of the road looked fat enough. Sling anchors above Myster Roach on a tree looked rotten so replaced them with new tape and two rap rings on 16th Dec. Edited December 18, 2007 by spike1970 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
northvanclimber Posted December 18, 2007 Share Posted December 18, 2007 Anyone have any updates from the Lilloet area from this past weekend? Rambles was wet but climable on friday. got warmer after that so i think a snorkel would nicely compliment any climbing gear taken up there now. went to oregon jack on saturday and also found it very wet, especially on the left. partner led up to the cave about halfway up but neither of us liked the unconsolidated curtain that followed so we rapped off a v-tread in the cave. looks like a couple more weeks of good, cold weather would be required to really get things more solid and filled-in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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