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crmlla2007

Vasque Radiator

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The BOA cable seems really "thin" and "sharp" - did your friend in pakistan notice that is cut the boot or gloves or anything like that?

 

 

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Interesting to see Aerogel get to the market so quickly. I wonder if they are replacing the Ice 9000?

 

Hope not, I am completely satisfied with my 9000s. The BOA doesn't allow you to 'zone' lace your boots, thus stuck with one tension throughout forefoot and upper ankle. This really sucks IMHO.

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The BOA cable seems really "thin" and "sharp" - did your friend in pakistan notice that is cut the boot or gloves or anything like that?

 

He says "They work really well actually on the double boots. I didn't like the old ones. They managed to get it so I could have tight spots and looser spots on the inner boot, which was key. It allows for "zone" lacing of the boots now. I was really pleased with the boots. They climbed really surprisingly well."

 

Since my friend has said significantly less favorable things in the past, I'm actually going to check these suckers out.

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Here's a picture of the boots after 60 days of dysentary, climbing, drinking and MMA. Honestly, if my buddy doesn't like something, there is often a 10 minute shitstorm of invective...these boots did not generate anything but praise.

 

pakifeet.jpg

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HERE IS A REVIEW I WROTE UP AFTER USING THEM SEVERAL WEEKS AGO:

 

 

I recently had the chance to use Vasque's new technical high altitude double boots, the Radiators.

 

As is quite common with new styles and features, I wasn't entirely convinced when I first saw the BOA System on the boots. I was worried that it would be difficult to make the feet tight, but ankles loose for approaching. Another concern was the lack of a full shank in the sole. In the store, the boot was definitely a little softer than its counterparts like the La Sportiva Nutpse or Spantik.

The price tag though, a modest $425, had me intrigued.

 

Four days off on an alpine endeavor gave me a perfect chance to go use these boots in a multitude of environments ranging from a flat trail to aggressive side-hilling on talus and scree, to full on technical alpine ice and rock climbing with crampons.

 

I was instantly convinced that these boots could 'walk the talk' as we did the six mile approach on the flat trail. Not only did they provide support, they also walked very well. My initial concern of not being able to lock the foot down without tightening it so much that I would get shin bang was instantly erased. Even with a full 50lb load on my back, these boots provided the support I needed and my feet never once felt uncomfortable.

 

When we got on the technical terrain, they climbed very well. The BOA System was easy to use and quick adjustments of the knob were great. It was not even necessary to take off big mitts when doing so, which was a big plus. Normally, I use the La Sportiva Nuptses when doing cold or multi-day alpine trips. One thing I instantly noticed was that these were much lighter, similar in warmth and slightly less bulky, another plus.

 

If there is one complaint I have about the Vasque Radiators, it is their softer sole. When put side by side with the Spantik or Nuptse, it is easy to see that the Radiator doesn't even come close to matching the sole thickness of either of these boots. Not only does that reduce the overall warmth of the boot, but it allows for a significant amount of additional flex. This, combined with what I found to be a softer Vibram rubber sole, made for very difficult side hilling. When kicking into very firm snow or neve, I was constantly struggling where my partner, with plastics, had no trouble getting solid footing. I could tell a distinct difference between the stiffness and hardness of my Nuptses and the Radiators. On terrain I had been many times before with my Nuptses, I noticed I had more difficulties kicking steps on steep and risky terrain where I hadn't before. Perhaps the intended market for the Radiators are meant more for routes where low valley, verglassed rock approaches are not the norm. Slap a pair of crampons on them though and they are money.

 

Other than that, the Radiators were warm, light, comfortable and simple yet innovative. As with all boots, I removed the normal insole and added my Sole Ultra insole. The price is hard to beat, cheaper even than La Sportiva's single leather alpine boot, the Nepal GTX. For this and the reasons previously mentioned, I would recommend this boot to friends and my customers looking to do moderate ice climbs or long Alaskan alpine routes.

 

Overall, I would give them an 8 out of 10

 

PROS: Affordable, easy to adjust with BOA System, warm, comfortable, and walk and climb well

CONS: Soft sole and shank don't always grip or shovel where other similar boot soles will

 

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