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hemp22

[TR] Cali, Vegas, NZ... - Various - Pics & name that route 11/16/2007

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Trip: Cali, Vegas, NZ... - Various - Pics & name that route

 

Date: 11/16/2007

 

Trip Report:

I recently took an extended vacation, and I was able to do a little bit of climbing in various locations.

None of the routes that I got on were note-worthy enough to warrant a more detailed TR. All of the climbs were common and well-traveled climbs in popular areas, and there's plenty of beta for them elsewhere on the net.

 

So, instead of an informative TR, I figured I'd just share some photos.

Feel free to try to identify the routes or locations - like a Name-that-route thread - some are easy, others are a bit harder. You can click on the pictures for a larger view.

Some caveats:

* I'm not a talented photographer, and most of these were taken with my old point & shoot camera (which now has a broken display screen).

* This is my first TR - go easy on me.

_____________________________________________________________

 

The trip started with visions of spectacular buttresses...

IMG_0439.JPG

...and golden swaths of granite.

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There were plenty of opportunities for butt-shots of leaders...

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...and poses by followers.

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There were dikes to yard on...

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...and roofs to negotiate.

IMG_2103.JPG

 

There were wide cracks to grunt through...

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...and thin cracks that ran on to the horizon.

IMG_2131-2.JPG

 

There were splitter hand cracks hidden in the trees...

IMG_2133-2.JPG

...and layback cracks just waiting to spit you off.

IMG_2142.JPG

 

There were looming monoliths...

IMG_2155.JPG

...and peaceful meadows.

IMG_2191.JPG

 

There were long classics to tick...

IMG_2188-2.JPG

...and high-ball boulders to top out on.

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There were traverses to warm up on...

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...and vicious crimps to cause injury.

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There were posh digs to stay at on rest days...

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...and cultural festivals to partake in.

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There were easy pitches to wander up...

IMG_2214-2.JPG

...and cruxes to contemplate.

IMG_2207-2.JPG

 

There was much wine to be tasted...

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...and much beer to sample as well.

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There were scenic sea-cliffs to admire...

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...and towering walls of schist(ty) rock to fear...

IMG_1539-2.JPG

...plus limestone crags hiding in the bush.

IMG_1433-2.JPG

 

There were golden, sandy beaches...

IMG_1419-2.JPG

...and not-so-golden, not-so-sandy beaches.

IMG_1561-2.JPG

 

There were peaks to be viewed from down low...

IMG_1693-2.JPG

...and peaks to be viewed from up high.

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There were grueling approaches...

IMG_1639-2.JPG

...and thrilling descents.

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There was mischevious wildlife ready to entertain...

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...and friendly locals to make all you CC.com'ers feel at home.

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There were runouts to get the blood flowing...

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...and sketchier descents to let the curses fly.

IMG_2216-2.JPG

 

But most importantly, a great time was had by all.

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Gear Notes:

* Keeping multiple air fresheners in the car helps keep the funk down when keeping nasty climbing shoes in the trunk for 3 weeks.

 

* When photocopying topos from guidebooks to avoid carrying the book up a climb, don't forget to photocopy the page that explains the descent...

 

* Casualties:

-1 red camalot

-1 tent due to high winds...

 

Approach Notes:

Domestic: Trusty subie

IMG_2197-2.JPG

 

Abroad: El Corolla Loco

IMG_1837-2.JPG

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wow, what a road trip .proly not right but how about travelers buttress at lovers leep. then free blast on el cap and triassic sands in black velvet. don't know the other climbs.

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wow, what a road trip .proly not right but how about travelers buttress at lovers leep. then free blast on el cap and triassic sands in black velvet. don't know the other climbs.

 

Correct pink - the first picture is a shot of Traveler's Buttress from afar (it's on the upper main wall - the pic also shows Surrealistic Pillar on the lower buttress - we'd intended to link the two). The "crux to contemplate" is Triassic Sands in RR (my car didn't enjoy the black velvet approach road too much). The El Cap picture isn't really meant to be of any route in particular - I didn't go all the way up...just did some cragging at the base.

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it's a great stone until it storms. then people start dropping shit. it's like easter egg hunting after a storm. i found one rock shoe once, poor guy.

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I see the Aoraki Boulders and Payne's Ford tropical limestone... nice!

 

Anything destroyed by the Kea?

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Was it a green boreal ace?

 

it was about 12 years ago and it was green 5.10 boot.

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Yep - the limestone is Payne's Ford. Close on the boulders - I believe they're "Moeraki" boulders (Aoraki = mt. cook).

 

I didn't see anything destroyed by the Kea, although it was perched on someone's rearview mirror for a while.

 

 

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I may be wrong but the picture "there were easy pitches to wander up" looked like Black Orpheus?

correct on Black Orpheus for the "easy pitches"...

 

and yeah, that milford sound shot is hard not to recognize if you've been there.

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This is probably one of the best TR's this year. Looks like a very sweet trip indeed. I am damn jealous.

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Great TR!!

 

There were runouts to get the blood flowing...

Frogland? The next RR shot might be the double-rope-rap-option descent off of Black Orpheus?

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Thanks all for the comments. It was definitely a great trip.

 

The "luge" ride was entertaining - but we actually had more fun watching people bungee jump up there and rating their screams...

 

 

FGW - correct on Frogland and the Black Orpheus descent. We only had 1 rope to rap with, but I think the 2 descent routes shared that downclimb...

I just got a bunch of other red rocks pics back too...

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We only had 1 rope to rap with

think I've heard that story from the dude in the descent shot :)

 

Some of your Yos. shots probably include Salaginella (sweet hand crack??), Nutcracker (layback), Pineline (el cap shot). Knobby looking wide crack in gold granite looks like Tuolumne but can't put my finger on which route.

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think I've heard that story from the dude in the descent shot :)

 

Some of your Yos. shots probably include Salaginella (sweet hand crack??), Nutcracker (layback), Pineline (el cap shot). Knobby looking wide crack in gold granite looks like Tuolumne but can't put my finger on which route.

Yeah, I figured he'd probably related our Red Rock adventures to you.

Anyway, correct on layback=Nutracker, and Elcap=Pineline. The hand crack isn't Selaginella though - didn't get on that one.

And yes, the wide crack & thin crack & golden granite is in Tuolumne.

Our original objective that day had been to do Regular route on Fairview dome, but it snowed on us the night before, so we decided not to do a north-facing climb, and instead we chose this nearby route that gets more sun exposure.

maybe i'll give this guessing game a few days and then go through and actually label the pictures....

 

 

 

Bill - Thanks. looking forward to your Red Rock TR too :/

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Trogdor and Chuck are both right on. The roof & dikes are on Haystack at the Leap. The Tuolumne pics (as well as the "thin crack") are West Crack on DAFF.

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