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miladugga

Rope soloing devices

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So lets say i want to work some routes without dragging along a partner, does anyone have an opinion and /or experience on the best device to use? I'm looking at the soloist, mini traxion, silent partner, or grigri. the grigri is the only one I've used, and only for belaying. I've read the ads for all of them, anybody have a preference?

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I know folks that use the mini traxion, but I like the Singing Rock Locker for TR'ing. No teeth, nice catch, you can downclimb with it, and you can leave it attched while you rappell. I use mine with a chest harness. I've seen folks who climb with it attached directly to their belay loop. Your call.

 

Singing Rock Locker

 

 

 

 

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MiniTraxion or Ushba Basic.

 

2 of the worst choices although people get them to work. For TR I'd rather just drop a knotted rope and clip it as I climb.

 

I hate all that stuff. But in order of likeability or not as much hate:

 

Soloist (ROUTE DEPENDANT)

Silent Partner

Edelrid Eddy tie with Modified Grigri and knotted rope. (I think that Joseph likes the Eddy best for leading BTW)

 

The Ushba shouldn't be on the list.

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I've used alot of things for this application, gri-gri, modified gri-gri, silent partner, various ascenders. And nothing tops the mini-traxion.

 

I use mine down here all the time. Ideal set-up is two mini-traxions, the lower one on a 4" sling to the belay loop as a back-up, the top one clipped directly to the belay loop with a short loop of shock cord girth hitched through the clip-in hole and worn over one shoulder bandolier style. The shock cord holds the trax upright and makes it engage almost immediately, without having slack out.

 

Personally, I use a pro-traxion as my backup device because I already owned it and couldn't justify the extra money for a second mini. It's a little bulky, but works fine.

 

One thing you may want to do with a mini-traxion is to cut off or grind down the little metal stud that allows you to lock the cam open. It's possible, but highely unlikely that it could get brushed against something and end up locked open.

 

NOTE: This is for fixed line TRing only. For solo leading, I prefer the modified gri-gri. Silent partner is just too much prep work, too big, etc.

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MiniTraxion or Ushba Basic.

 

2 of the worst choices although people get them to work. For TR I'd rather just drop a knotted rope and clip it as I climb.

 

I hate all that stuff. But in order of likeability or not as much hate:

 

Soloist (ROUTE DEPENDANT)

Silent Partner

Edelrid Eddy tie with Modified Grigri and knotted rope. (I think that Joseph likes the Eddy best for leading BTW)

 

The Ushba shouldn't be on the list.

 

We are talking about TRing. Your choices are either overkill or dumb. I have been using the Ushba for 8 years now and it is simple and works like a dream :fahq:

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IMHO (FWIW) - if we're talking about toprope soloing (not leading), between the grigri and eddy only, if you hang them off your harness as you normally would, the grigri feeds rope more intuitively out the front and down, as you would when rappelling. The eddy feeds out the top rear, and it feels a little odd to take in slack as you climb.

 

It's doable, and I do normally use an eddy, but anyone else foolish enough to do this should consider that minor point before being surprised.

 

In fact, whatever you decide to do, I recommend you screw around with it first in a very non-threatening environment that allows you to bail at any time, and provide a backup plan for yourself (clove hitches and knots are a simple plan) till you are totally comfortable with whatever it is you decide.

 

 

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I use an Eddy only for lead roped-soloing, I don't use it for anything else. The direction of the rope feed in the Eddy that makes it so good for lead roped-soloing makes it less than ideal for TR soloing, though that's the mode I use it in for seconding all my solo pitches so it's not that bad. Personally if I were doing the TR thing I'd do double minitraxions deal or just use a regular grigri.

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Thanks all, i didn't make it clear that I was thinking of mostly TRing but considering leads also. It sounds like I should stick with TR for awhile, which is fine. I hadn't heard of a number of the devices mentioned, I'll check them out. And I will definitely get this wired using the practice bolts in my garage before I take it on the road.:)

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Instead of spending $70 or $80 on a solo-lead belay device, spend that much on beer and promise it to whatever sucker will belay you.

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We are talking about TRing. Your choices are either overkill or dumb. I have been using the Ushba for 8 years now and it is simple and works like a dream :fahq:

 

:fahq: Best put the beer down eh and break out the reading glasses to read the fine print on "Her Majesties stationary" also known as ("Her supreme parasite") in the link below you hoser!

 

You can thank me later.

 

LINK TO REAL TESTING CLICK ON THIS

 

 

"Test performance: The Ushba Stop-Lock fared very badly in the dynamic

tests. Only two devices were available for the dynamic tests and both

of these cut the rope completely, without any slippage, at a peak

force of 5.5 kN. The devices were too distorted and damaged to test

again. This would appear to be a serious design fault and the

Stop-Lock cannot be recommended for use as a back-up device. No

further tests were carried out."

 

 

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So lets say i want to work some routes without dragging along a partner, does anyone have an opinion and /or experience on the best device to use? I'm looking at the soloist, mini traxion, silent partner, or grigri. the grigri is the only one I've used, and only for belaying. I've read the ads for all of them, anybody have a preference?

 

Here's another link bubba: Link

 

The Yates or Troll rocker in the link is Sherri's Singing Rock device above. I hear of folks climbing with the 2 Petzl Traxions devices, it's not uncommon at all (Mini and Pro), but there is evidence of them failing while hauling as well, so pick and choose what you want from that.

 

I've never heard of one failing while climbing, maybe someone has, but soloists rarely fall.

 

How about just borrowing people stuff to try it out?

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Dude. So will just about any self-belay device. It's for TR. Try generating that much force. :rolleyes: I know you are old but I didn't think you were senile.

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I use an USHBA basic as well for TR solo, with an occasional backup knot. It's the easiest device to climb with that I have used since it's basically self feeding. The test quoted above was looking at factor 2 falls with big guys (simulated) and while it is interesting reading isn't very relevant to this sort of situation. G is right that many ascenders and self-belay devices will fail or shred the rope at those forces.

 

For lead solo I use a gri-gri.

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Dude. So will just about any self-belay device. It's for TR. Try generating that much force. :rolleyes: I know you are old but I didn't think you were senile.

 

Yes I am not only both but fat as well. However, as I am still alive, I take that to heart as an indication that I have been smart enough to avoid the chop yet this far.

 

Drew, Rock and Ice did tests which surprisingly was able to develop up to 1300 lbs on a belayed Toprope fall. If you have any Canadian math handy, please note that the low rating on the Ushba can be exceeded by that figure.

 

Now, I've been a good sport and provided links to shit which has shown me to be correct. I have only done this to contribute to your knowledge, safety and well being. You can find this info online, it is not a secret.

 

I have children, and like you, they often choose to ignore my wisdom. I'm saying no worries there, I'm use to being relagated to the shitheap, but yet I still want you to have the info, despite the fact that you are but a lowly Canadian.

 

And a bit of an obnoxious one at that.

 

:lmao:

 

I'm trying to say, in my way: "you're welcome".

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Those are good links, Billcoe, and the info in them had factored heavily into my choice of devices. Good on ya for postin' them up here. :tup:

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I'm also old and fat...

 

I've used a rock exotica microscender for TRing for years. No rope damage thanks to a very smooth cam. It'll slip if something huge happens. I guess they're now made by Petzl?

 

GB

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I'm also old and fat...

 

 

I'm sorry, but I have that phrase patented.

 

Welcome Sherri! That Lyons link esp. has some good stuff.

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Heck, they all work. If you don't have one of your fancy devices, put your rope through your ATC as though you were belaying someone, put a prusik above it, and you will probably live that way too. Good? Better? Best? Hell, they will all keep you alive.

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how about a clove hitch with two lockers. done a few walls like that and it worked just fine.

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Thanks for the links, interesting reading. It sounds like several ways to go would be workable. I think I'll go with the modified gri-gri and the rocker back up. I already have a gri gri i never use and the ease of descending makes it sound pretty good. Now I just have to see if Off White will let me TR solo at his quarry...also I will be that dope at Tieton trying to develop some crack climbing skills. Thanks all.

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I've been using the Yates Rocker for TR for several years and fallen on it many times - works great.

 

I've used the Silent Partner on a few solo leads and I like it even though it's weighty to haul around. I've taken one fall on it and it locks up nicely.

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Anyone have experience with this arrester from petzl?

Check out the videos. The one of the dummy drop certainly exceeds any fall I'd make while toproping.

 

Specs say for use with >10.5 mm semi-static ropes.

 

Thoughts on applicability for self belay climbing?

 

 

 

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Never seen one but it looks great spotly.

 

 

Says:

"Asap®

Mobile fall arrester for rope

 

For use on a safety rope.

 

* Stops a fall, slide or uncontrolled descent.

* Locks even if the device is grabbed during a fall.

* Works on vertical or angled rope.

* Moves along the rope without manual intervention (downwards and upwards).

* Easy to install and remove at any point on the rope.

 

Certification

 

CE EN 353 2

Technical specifications

 

For 10.5 to 13 mm semi-static ropes (EN 1891 type A) certified with the device.

Comes with the OK TRIACT automatic locking carabiner.

350 g + carabiner (77 g) = 427 g. "

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