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Umbilicals/Lanyards


fenderfour

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I made 3 of these that I don't need. These are $40 each. I know, it seems like a lot. After materials and the cost of shipping the components is covered, you will be paying me about $6 for the time to stitch one of these up.

 

I'm not interested in shipping. I'm terrible about getting to the post office in a timely fashion and I end up feeling guilty about it. I live in Seattle and work in Everett. We can arrange pickup anywhere between the two.

 

Umbilical001.jpg

The mini carabiners are made of stainless steel. They have a working load limit of 260 lbs. (locking carabiner shown for size, not included)

Umbilical002.jpg

 

The swivel is rated around 250 lbs WLL. The webbing is 1/2" mil spec. The seams are covered in shrink tubing to protect the stitching and prevent it from getting caught on things.

 

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Dave the swivel on Fender's rig is rated to 260# so the mini biners at 250# are actually right were they need to be and maybe a bit more :) You'd be hard pressed to get a 250# load on one of these if the sizing is correct, short of a full body weight fall directly on to just one tool.

 

Fender I really do want 2 of your rigs and think they are a bargain for the labor involved @$40.

 

But for those that think $40 a bit steep. I use 1/2" webbing with a bungie "linked" to my harness by an overhand knot through the tool end and a 880# "chain link" to my harness. The chain link takes both tools. For short sections of piolet canne I just deal with it hooked up. If I need to do a lot of piolet cane before or after a route I unhook one tool from my harness and either simply drag the umbilical or pull it through the carabiner hole on the tool head. Either way works fine. A treking pole might well be a better answer.

 

Being tied in all the time works well for technical climbing where I don't anticipate hooking and unhooking my umbilicals to use the tool for plunging (like at the base of a cornice) or piolet cane. But you can do either easily enough while still tied in. Plunging being the more difficult of the two.

 

alaska21.jpg

 

Marmot in Bellevue was the only shop locally I could find 1/2 tube. REI has the 1/8" elastic. Lowe's has the links in the hardware department for a buck or so each. My tie in link is rated at 880#. The smaller link shown is rated at 660#.

The smaller link also makes a good tool attachment point.

 

This is what I use ... cost less than $10 for the set, part of an old wire coat hanger to thread the elastic and 15 minutes of your time.

 

aaq.sized.jpg

 

And a comparison with other biners including the Nano...

aar.sized.jpg

 

Other ways to attach to the tool depending on what you need.

 

aas.sized.jpg

 

aat.sized.jpg

 

FWIW..I have been using umbilicals on technical tools for a long time. My original use was as a traveling backup belay and to avoid tool loss. IMO they really don't come onto their own until they are on a system that was designed to be leashless. The pic below shows Marko Prezelj on N. Twin during the 2nd ascent of the Lowe/Jones with Steve House. Having a tool dangling off the umbilical might well be an slight tactical error, but more likely from my limited experience this winter with leashless tools, it might just be the position of choice.

 

Some times you just want the damn thing out of the way...and can clip it in later.

 

And my original intended uses are not negated.

 

amba_4_3.jpg

 

Leashless is all about freedom of movement. Adding umbilicals, surprizingly to me, can actually add to that freedom.

Edited by Dane
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btw, you might consider using a full strength mini biner instead. stronger and lighter. the camp nano 23 comes to mind:

http://www.rei.com/product/764094

 

I looked at all of the available miner 'biners and didn't like the bulk that they added. I also wanted a clip with a captive eye.

 

250 lbs working load limit means a 1000 lb breaking strength. These are plenty burly to hold your tools.

 

Which brings up another point - If you bought one of these from me, you must understand that it is only to prevent a tool form being lost. It is not to be used as part of an anchor or to support bodyweight.

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