Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
Trent

[TR] Eldorado - NW Face Couloir 11/5/2007

Recommended Posts

Trip: Eldorado - NW Face Couloir

 

Date: 11/5/2007

 

Trip Report:

For those interested in the conditions, Scott and I climbed the NW Face Couloir on Eldorado on Monday. The recent warm rain followed by cool clear weather made the climbing conditions excellent. The steep approach on Sunday took us 5 ½ hours to our camp on the Inspiration Glacier. The next morning we started marching at 0715, traversing across the east face on a frozen crust and descending a gully at the col to the immediate north of the North Ridge. We down-climbed a bit, then did two 30M rappels to get us into the North Cirque (See Alpinist David for further enlightenment). The climbing in the couloir was steep snice punctuated by steps of WI3 ice. The rock was mostly rimed and verglassed over, so rock pro was pretty scarce. It reminded me of pictures that I have seen of Scottish winter climbing, except that we were not making any frozen turf sticks. The climbing was very enjoyable with good body weight sticks the whole way up. We topped out four hours after starting, and went camp to camp in 7 ½ hours.

 

Eldorado_017.jpg

Easy travel on the glacier

 

Eldorado_021.jpg

Rapping into the northern cirque

 

Eldorado_022.jpg

The route

 

Eldorado_025.jpg

Belaying

 

Eldorado_027.jpg

Following

 

aug-nov_07_241.jpg

An ice step

 

aug-nov_07_253.jpg

Fun!

 

Eldorado_033.jpg

Topping out

 

Gear Notes:

Brought a light alpine rack, four screws, and two pickets. Could’ve used less rock pro and more pickets.

 

Approach Notes:

Trail free of snow to 6000 feet. Snow conditions were good early in the day with easy travel on a frozen rain crust.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice job! Man I would love to get back and climb that route again, it is such a nice setting. Great to see it in different conditions to what we had too.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the pics!

Great job!

 

 

Makes work a little easier to endure.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×