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"Rope", "Slack", or "Clipping"


ClimbingCowboy

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established signals that have been worked out for many decades under all conditions and proven to be the best,

 

The Best? Maybe in your mind.

 

 

to a new set of signals that were developed for use in a gym.

 

I did not learn to climb in a gym……I don’t know those signals….

 

What I do know is that what ever I say…..my belayer needs to know what I mean…..would you agree?

 

 

I was climbing St. Vitas Dance (spelling???) in Squamish a couple of years ago the party in front of us were conucks….they were not using signals that I recognized. The leader would say “secure” when saying off belay.

 

Are you telling me that that guy is full of crap because he did not use what you are used too? That’s what I thought. All areas of climbing are different friend…….

Say whatever you want.

Do whatever you want.

Just don't call me a vagina.

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Just don't call me a vagina.

Pussy!

 

sorry, Keith, but you set yerself up like a bowling pin on that one... :laf:

 

 

:lmao: yur right.

But you are a uterus.

 

Well, not a uterus exactly, but a bag of sorts... Most people who know me refer to me as a douchebag. In a nice way.

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I've tried tug systems a few times when there's a lot of rope drag I find it hard to tell if it's a tug or just the climber moving fast over easy terrain. I've always ended up belaying out the rope as fast as it is being pulled out, pausing until I think I'm on belay and waiting a little longer before start climbing. My partners always felt this was best in the situation. I think radios might be the safest method.

 

I agree that a universal system would be safest but I don't think it's possible to create one that everyone will agree on and use even within North America.

 

i have sloved the problem of when to begin to climb when climbing multi pitch with someone you can not see or hear.... i climb with someone bigger than me and when he pulls the rope so tight my feet leave the gorund i know it is time to get my ass on the rock. I am only half kidding here.

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p.s. when climbing with one of my all time favorite teacher partner people(texplorer)... he used to say

 

"Dude your the hand" for belay is on. it was an inside joke but i totaly knew what he meant.

 

to me it boils down to knowing my climbing partner.

 

it is good to climb with new people and it is good to quickly go threw signals you use before you leave the ground but a good expereienced climber who is paying attention will know what you mean even if you use the wrong word. thus many people climb with people who speak other languages in other countries all the time.

 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

I've been going through the Mazamas tips and tricks and found a discussion on rope signals which describes what I mentioned up thread about rope signals. It mentions the possible confusion due to long pitches and rope drag which I was concerned about. The recommendation is to belay out the rope to the end and then only use tugs on the rope to signify 'on belay'. Makes sense to me.

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to me it boils down to knowing my climbing partner.

Disagree on your way down all you want.

it is good to climb with new people and it is good to quickly go threw signals you use before you leave the ground but a good expereienced climber who is paying attention will know what you mean even if you use the wrong word.

So those of us who have climbed with the same signals for decades are expected to "know what you mean" (read girlspeak) when you use gymspeak?!

I like your posts n all but this just seems dangerous to me.

Sure go over those new signals you came up with. Forget all the tested procedures that most or all of the older climbers have used for decades. Just go with the flow. And when you are all stressed out and yell something barely intelligible that sounds kindof like an old signal that means the opposite of what you need to survive....

It's all dowhill.

 

As I said in another thread, someone is going to die because of this new fangled, "say whatever you want" attitude.

It is sad. The old signals are not hap-hazardly derived.

I'm not trying to be contentious. This is really going to be the root cause of some deaths.

 

 

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So you're leading a sport/trad route. You've clipped your 'biner in the bolt or pro and now ready to place the rope in the 'biner. The belayer or leader is new to this in that they always top-rope, so verbal communication is used because the new person is unaware that some extra rope is to be needed.

 

Does the leader say, "Rope", "Slack", or "Clipping"?

 

Leader only says "Slack", or just STFU and pulls up steady with the rope to clip.

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More lexicon:

 

Falling off or about to fall off a short bit: Don't ya say "Take"?

 

Falling off a short bit to moderate istance more: "Takkkkeee meee" (turning up the volume before jumping off)

 

Falling off a long distance: TAKE ME REAL HARD.

 

Half way up and out of sight a multi-pitch ya say, "Hey: schaderone do ya jdfjedic xijd0a doeo tvld me dere? ", repeat 3 or 4 times when your partner cannot understand. Thats what I learned in Vegas last time.

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More lexicon:

 

Half way up and out of sight a multi-pitch ya say, "Hey: schaderone do ya jdfjedic xijd0a doeo tvld me dere? ", repeat 3 or 4 times when your partner cannot understand. Thats what I learned in Vegas last time.

 

Exactly. :lmao:

 

Doesn't that translate something like, "Take me OFF BELAY, dude, I want to see how far up this polished chimney I can solo. Thanks! "?

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