chris_harkness Posted October 31, 2007 Share Posted October 31, 2007 Hello, I've spent the last 9 years in Colorado, California, and abroad climbing rock, aid, big wall, and a little alpine, and now I'd like to step it up to some more serious mountains, and figured the PNW might be a good area to move out to. I would like to find some mountains/faces/cliffs that are big, steep, and scary, with a healthy mix of all the climbing styles. Can anyone suggest any routes, mountains, or areas that I might research for future objectives? I know this is a pretty vague inquiry, but any suggestions would be much appreciated. thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottP Posted October 31, 2007 Share Posted October 31, 2007 The Norwegian Buttress routes on Mt Index and the North Face routes on Mt Baring are big and steep. The scariness factor is pretty subjective, but these routes don't get a lot of traffic for 'some' reason. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayB Posted November 1, 2007 Share Posted November 1, 2007 Diamond face of Bear Mountain is another. Plug "John Scurlock" into Google, scroll through his galleries, and cross reference the faces that look interesting to you with Beckey's alpine guide or inquiries at cc.com. If you put this inquiry on the main forum, your post will probably get quite a bit more exposure, and you may get quite a few more suggestions than you will if you leave it in this forum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted November 1, 2007 Share Posted November 1, 2007 Hello, I've spent the last 9 years in Colorado... I would like to find some mountains/faces/cliffs that are big, steep, and scary, with a healthy mix of all the climbing styles. The Tooth has exactly what you are looking for. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted November 1, 2007 Share Posted November 1, 2007 Here's some stuff to argue about (no particular order other than when I thought them up) Waddington? Davis Peak? Nooksack Tower? Mox Peak? Nothern Pickets? The Tooth Old Settler Southern Pickets (N side)? Johannesburg? Stuart? Chimney Rock? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dan_forester Posted November 1, 2007 Share Posted November 1, 2007 what, you're getting bored with Shovel Point & road trips to Taylor's Falls? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris_harkness Posted November 3, 2007 Author Share Posted November 3, 2007 thanks guys! This helps alot. Hey, nothing wrong with Shovel Point and Palisade Head--we've all gotta start somewhere:) (never did like Taylor's Falls though) Maybe I will try posting this on the main forum. Thanks again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheamclimber Posted January 4, 2008 Share Posted January 4, 2008 If you dont mind dying and looking like a retard in the act the North Face of Lady Peak has never been climbed.... :: Its big and Alpine but more of a vertical chos pile that a real cliff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill_Simpkins Posted January 4, 2008 Share Posted January 4, 2008 If you dont mind dying and looking like a retard in the act the North Face of Lady Peak has never been climbed.... :: Its big and Alpine but more of a vertical chos pile that a real cliff Wrong! I climbed about 15 feet of it! I'm waiting for someone to climb the South face of American Border peak when it ices up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheamclimber Posted January 5, 2008 Share Posted January 5, 2008 (edited) I think the far right hand side of Lady North Face could be done in winter... and the south face of ABP would make a good aid line up one of the gullies I was looking at or a slightly harder route up the face.... I thought either would probably go at about 5.9 A1 or 2 (some small roofs) I will try it if you want to try it^ I'll give either of these a shot next summer Edited January 5, 2008 by cheamclimber Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OlympicMtnBoy Posted January 5, 2008 Share Posted January 5, 2008 Chris! Long time no see since our party in Kyrgyzstan! Let me know if you need a partner when you come up, or at least come grab a beer. There's some choss exploring to be done in the Olympics too but the above objectives are probably all steeper/longer. - Stewart Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill_Simpkins Posted January 11, 2008 Share Posted January 11, 2008 I would consider the South Face of ABP during one of those dry/cold winters we had, like a couple years ago. Heck, you could probably even hike in snow free then. Right now it's probably just plastered with crap and super deadly. I'll try to telephoto into it next time I go snowboarding at Baker. Maybe John S. could take a few up-close photos from his plane? (hint hint). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted January 11, 2008 Share Posted January 11, 2008 I have a photo of the ice gully that foms up in Cheamclimber's right-hand line but I bet it's a death trap right now like almost all of the alpine. I can't see it being a good summer route. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheamclimber Posted January 12, 2008 Share Posted January 12, 2008 The rock changes dramatically on that face, southeast part of the mountain has some of the worst rock I have ever seen in my life but the farther out you go towards the southwest face the rock improves quite abit. I would still really want a helmet though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
i_like_sun Posted January 12, 2008 Share Posted January 12, 2008 There are some really good big alpine cliffs off of Chair 5. Nice steep landings! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sol Posted January 15, 2008 Share Posted January 15, 2008 Also check out: Navigator Wall on Mt Slesse Dissapearing Floor Route on Mt Hardy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheamclimber Posted January 16, 2008 Share Posted January 16, 2008 Also check out: Navigator Wall on Mt Slesse Dissapearing Floor Route on Mt Hardy Is the navigator the East Face.. that looks wicked hard! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sol Posted January 18, 2008 Share Posted January 18, 2008 Also check out: Navigator Wall on Mt Slesse Dissapearing Floor Route on Mt Hardy Is the navigator the East Face.. that looks wicked hard! the nav wall goes up a sub summit to the east of the east pillar. both are ED1, both are hard. the one positive of the east pillar may be the additions of fixed gear (20 year old bolts and pitons), while the nav wall has not a single piece of anything resembling fixed gear, prior ascents, hints of human life, etc. Nav Wall TR East Pillar TR but really those are just warm ups for the real hard climb on slesse, the NE Face. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheamclimber Posted January 18, 2008 Share Posted January 18, 2008 Also check out: Navigator Wall on Mt Slesse Dissapearing Floor Route on Mt Hardy Is the navigator the East Face.. that looks wicked hard! the nav wall goes up a sub summit to the east of the east pillar. Are you reffering to the face between NE Butress and N Rib?...has that been climbed? both are ED1, both are hard. the one positive of the east pillar may be the additions of fixed gear (20 year old bolts and pitons), while the nav wall has not a single piece of anything resembling fixed gear, prior ascents, hints of human life, etc. Nav Wall TR East Pillar TR but really those are just warm ups for the real hard climb on slesse, the NE Face. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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