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blueserac

[TR] Arrowsmith Massif- Vancouver Island - The Snout 7/14/2007

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Trip: Arrowsmith Massif- Vancouver Island - The Snout

 

Date: 7/14/2007

 

Trip Report:

The Snout is right out in the open for all to see, like a nose on your face. We have viewed from the hairpin, on the way to the "col" or from the rock on Cokely.

IMGP4493.JPG

Snout from Cokely

Snout_From_Cokely.JPG

 

This buttress is so obvious that one day we had to wander over to it and introduce ourselves. On one saturday, that wasn't a monsoon, or too hot, or full of bugs we re-discovered this line.

Copy_of_Snout_Arrowsmit-Cokely_Saddle.JPG

The Snout is four and a bit pitches of low fifth (5.2ish). Ohhh, it reminds me of four pitches of Sugarloaf at Murrin, the climbing is very similar. However, it is devoid of cracks and good places for pro, either good or bad. I looked and scoured for gear placements and those few pieces went in we dug out and poor. One piece per pitch. Pitches were about 55 meters. The belays are left desiring for better anchors.

IMGP03571.JPG

Looking up from the base

IMGP4429.JPG

Topping out

Super fun romping...the rock is good...if it had gear it would be a great first multi-pitch lead for a beginner...as is, cerebral for the intermediate leader, a good dance for seasoned folk. A great add on to the Bumps Route.

 

4 pitches, 5.2, x-rated.

 

Gear Notes:

Gorilla Tape.

Slings

Blades

Nuts (#1 Stopper, #3 Wallnut)

Cam #2

60m rope

Approach Notes:

Park at the hairpin and hike to the "col" then go right ~100 or so meters then descend to the base. This should take ~45 minutes.

 

Descend via the approach.

Edited by blueserac

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