curtveld Posted October 27, 2007 Share Posted October 27, 2007 Trip: Ingalls Peaks - Consolation linkup - III 5.7 Date: 9/26/2007 Trip Report: Andy and I may well be the crustiest northwest climbers that have never climbed Stuart's North Ridge. But the north wind hammering through the night convinced us we might want to wait a little longer. But as we hiked out past Ingalls Lake, the wind calmed and we decided to grab a 'bird in the hand' on the Ingalls peaks. Having done the North Peak before, we scoped the East Peak. The south face looked reasonable and, having no guidebook to confirm or deny, up we went. A short rightward traverse accessed a clean class 3/4 corner system that brought us to a small talus bowl. The steeper black wall above went with a bit of juggy 5.6, past an old fixed pin (FP on photo) that confirmed prior ascents. From there, we simuled rightward up moderate slabs. A couple more steep blocky moves and we were onto the East Peak. From there, two raps got us down into the obvious chockstone notch and the start of the East Ridge of North Ingalls with time to spare. The East Ridge has a lot to like, including interesting mid-fifth climbing with decent pro, great exposure and views. The rock varies from reddish and rough to glassy black, but is always solid. And the swaths of green-yellow lichen are fantastic. Route finding is simple, aside from the occasional moment when you wonder which way you'll go around the next tower. But once you get there, it's obvious. We simuled most of the ridge, belaying occasionally when rope drag required. From the North summit, three raps down the south ridge (good anchors) got us back down. All in all, this combo makes a fine moderate outing. Starting with the East peak (we did the 'S. Face Right' in the tan Beckey guide) adds length and avoids some gully nastiness. Definitely worth doing...but it aint Stuart. The Consolation linkup - East Ingalls on the right The lower corner on the East peak Near the notch between peaks Stuart, as the cloud streamers off the summit were dissipating Photos by Andy Heiser Gear Notes: 60 m half rope and a light rack Approach Notes: Ingalls Lake trail Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spotly Posted October 28, 2007 Share Posted October 28, 2007 Very nice. I'm hoping to do this next year and continue on to S. Ingalls then Fortune then follow the ridge over to Ingalls Pass. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curtveld Posted November 6, 2007 Author Share Posted November 6, 2007 Close call of the trip: Cruising up 97 afterwards to catch the last burger at Gustavs, Andy swerved to miss a roadkill deer in the middle of the lane. He swerved back left to stay on the road and nearly overshot into an oncoming car. Holy shee-ite! Marcus’ post about tragedy striking where you least expect it reminded me of that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
icmtns Posted March 13, 2011 Share Posted March 13, 2011 (edited) Looks like a fun link-up! with the S peak and adding Fortune too! Also glad you survived the car /deer/car near hit. Good reminder. Here's a picture of our recent return home trip near miss: (also don't have all the rocks in the road that we had to swerve to miss) Edited March 14, 2011 by icmtns Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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