Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
fern

[TR] Kyrgyzstan - Ak Sai Glacier - Peak Free Korea - North Face - Barber Route 10/14/2007

Recommended Posts

Trip: Kyrgyzstan - Ak Sai Glacier - Peak Free Korea - North Face - Barber Route

 

Date: 10/14/2007

 

Trip Report:

Here's some photos from a short climbing adventure in Kyrgyzstan:

 

 

Al_Archa_007sm.jpg

The trail to the Ak Sai glacier looks like most trails.

 

Al_Archa_033sm.jpg

Above Ratsek hut the path follows the moraine beside the spilling ice fall of the Ak Sai, and Peak Free Korea starts to come into view.

 

Al_Archa_045sm.jpg

Like all civilized alpine venues, cell-phone reception is excellent.

 

Al_Archa_050sm.jpg

"Food is Power" ... "Speck is the first food of all Russian Climbers".

 

Al_Archa_056sm.jpg

Even at midday the North Face gets no sun. We spend a day busting a trail through the heavy powder and fixing a rope across the bergschrund.

 

Al_Archa_082sm.jpg

700m of climbing below us, we approach the crux exit ice ribbon to reach the summit ridge.

 

Al_Archa_093sm.jpg

The summit at last, a quick photo of Dima.

 

Al_Archa_094sm.jpg

A quick photo of me.

 

Al_Archa_097sm.jpg

The sun sets across the Tien Shan. Time for a dark and long descent.

 

Al_Archa_108sm.jpg

Tired out now. Time to pack up the teapot and head back to Bishkek.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

speck is smoked pork fat. so the recipe is probably something like: 1) kill pig, 2) hang over smoky fire

 

no immediate plans to go back soon, though I will likely be over there again in 2008.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice, kinda makes me wanna go back, cept I liked the rock farther south better. Congrads on a nice summit. Did you go there just to climb or some other connection?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Rad. Looks like NW Face of N Ridge of Forbidden was just a nice little warmup for that.

 

Water ice or kicking steps most of the way?

 

Take me next time!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

here is a photo topo. Red is the Barber route. Yellow is the Lowe route. Blue is the descent route down the upper Barber route (ice face) and lower Andreeva route (rock buttress)

 

phototopo.jpg

 

Edited by fern

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

it has. by a long measure. but now I get to fly business class to my climbing spots :P

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Damn that is a long ways to go to do a Barber route? Running out of Barber routes to climb in the PNW? Either way looked like some good climbing and purdy mountains in K-stan.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×