Marty Posted October 22, 2007 Share Posted October 22, 2007 Trip: China Bend - Several Date: 10/13/2007 Trip Report: Team Spokane, and Team Gay met at 8AM at team Gay headquarters (My house. And no, we're not really gay, that's just what Team Green (They enjoy the wacky tabaccky) calls us so don't go trying to sign us up for gay chatlines and stuff. Keep your rainbow flags and pink triangles to yourself. If I catch you trying to pinch my butt at Smith Rocks next time I see you there will be a war, Okay?). Team Pullman was already at the cliff. They spent the night after bouldering at Liberty Park on Friday. They were very motivated. After our alpine start, and grocery store stops we got to the crag at about 11AM. Why so late? Well picking the proper selection of energy drinks and crag goodies takes time. Also the Kettle River bridge is out and now it takes a little longer drive to the cliff. A typical start of the day, Team Spokane member John Keene warming up on Pork Sausage, 11b. Everybody loves Pork in the morning Team Gay member Marty Bland hasn't been climbing lately but did step up and warm up on A River Runs Through it, 11c. If you study the photo, you will notice an absolute lack of any muscle definition what so ever. Very sad conditioning. Even more disturbing perhaps, is the attentiveness of his fellow team member and belayer in this photo. At any rate the day progressed and got a bit cloudy, which was good for sending. Team Gay member Bryan starting up his current project, Evil Betty, 13a He was not a success on this trip and will return to face this enduro, pumpfest in the future, where he will likely crush this monstrosity of a route. Mike Boccino, of Team Pullman was succesful. Here he is sending Game Warden, 12d Perhaps the highlight of the day was Team Spokane's Johnny Goicoccea,(sp but I can't ever even hope to spell that guys name anyway) and his near ascent of the Overoptimistic Local 14a. He'd been working it and this was the day to send, especially when the clouds rolled in and cooled the temps. He started the route, made it through the crux, but on the easy terrain at the chains, he broke a hold and was off. Couple photo's: The crux set up: And the crux sloper stick. You know its a bad hold when you can see the top of it and you're standing on the ground. At any rate, there was some sun, great sports action, and sore shoulders at the end of the day. It doesn't get any better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curtveld Posted October 22, 2007 Share Posted October 22, 2007 Blue skies, fall colors, shirtless climbing...you east-siders really know how to rub it in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sol Posted October 22, 2007 Share Posted October 22, 2007 Sweet, some climbing on this site. :tup: How long of a drive is china bend from l-worth? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roadstead1 Posted October 22, 2007 Share Posted October 22, 2007 (edited) Maybe about 5 hours, it's almost two hours from Spokane. That's way to far of a drive, just to climb on some of the Best Limestone in the State...when you have Vantage just down the Hill. Edited October 22, 2007 by Roadstead1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drater Posted October 22, 2007 Share Posted October 22, 2007 lworth to wenatchee, E on 2 until hwy 25 N (reardon? davenport?), 25N to 395 at kettle falls, can't see how that could take much more than 4 hours. unless the alternate route because of the kettle river bridge is that much longer. barstow bridge and up over the hill? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spotly Posted October 22, 2007 Share Posted October 22, 2007 If I were to bring a friend up there that couldn't climb 5.14g, would there be some stuff he could play on while I did the hard stuff? You know, some warm up 5.10 or 5.4? Oh, and Marty, for Pete's sake but a shirt back on till you get some tone back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drater Posted October 22, 2007 Share Posted October 22, 2007 teh warmup is 11a. marty, you look like a kiteboarder!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drater Posted October 22, 2007 Share Posted October 22, 2007 and what is this boldering at liberty park all about? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marty Posted October 23, 2007 Author Share Posted October 23, 2007 Spotly, there are some 10's and the 11's are well bolted, endurance (no hard moves just big holds and pumpy) routes that even if you don't send, they are fun to climb on. It aint like minne, you can actually fall without hitting the ground. Drater I am a part time kiter these days. Kiting does jack for your fitness. Especially the after kite beer drinking. Liberty Park: Well its all chipped so if you dont like it don't come: Here's my miniguide: 1. Home of the Homeless V5 2. Pipe Hittin' Niggaz V8 3. Walk the Earth V9 4. Cant remember v9 5. The Naturalist v7 6. Carrie v6 Best bouldering in spokane. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jens Posted October 23, 2007 Share Posted October 23, 2007 Marcus has been on my list for ages. Limestone is the nectar of the gods. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drater Posted October 23, 2007 Share Posted October 23, 2007 marty, drater is blowboarder. drater knows about your kite jones. LPO is amazing these days, lake is down 5' creating fat sand beaches everywhere, especially out in laclede. get a drysuit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericb Posted October 23, 2007 Share Posted October 23, 2007 Marty....my mom now lives up on 395 north past kettle falls about 5 miles south of the Laurier border crossing, and I had no idea there was any climbing up there....sounds like this might only be ~ 30-40 minutes away +/-??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spotly Posted October 23, 2007 Share Posted October 23, 2007 About an hour from Kettle Falls Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drater Posted October 23, 2007 Share Posted October 23, 2007 probably 45 minutes depending on the route from Laurier. good granite boldering up on Boulder Pass. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyf Posted October 25, 2007 Share Posted October 25, 2007 good granite boldering up on Boulder Pass. True, once you find it. Nice TR, Marty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drater Posted October 25, 2007 Share Posted October 25, 2007 andyf, i've got a friend that just relocated back to the laurier area, not a climber but has some geologic awareness, put him on the search for big granite boulderfields and boldering sized limestone roofs. early returns are promising, i'm hoping to go check them firsthand before the snows fall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyf Posted October 26, 2007 Share Posted October 26, 2007 Let me know how your research goes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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