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[TR] Bugaboos, BC Canada - Bugaboo spire etc.

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The weather is always the crux in the Bugaboos.




From August 25th to the 31st my partner and I traveled up to the Bugaboos for our first time. We had hoped to Climb the Kain, the NE Ridge of Bugaboo Spire and the Beckey/Chouinard on South Howser Tower, but the snow and ice kept us from some of our goals.


For a full trip report with photos and video, check out




The short of it...


-The road is in good condition... typical logging road conditions.

-The approach really is not very fun. 3 miles? It felt like 10. Pack as light as possible.

-It wasn't crowded; the weather probably scared people away.

-The Col was in terrible condition; rockfall was common and unavoidable and the 'shrund was long and wide.

-We used double ropes; really helped us when we had to bail from the top of the NE Ridge and rap down the East Face.

-La Sportiva Trango S Evo boots are the perfect boots for the Bugaboos. My feet did get cold, but then again my whole body was cold. They climb really well on rock.

-Expect snow in the Bugaboos in August.

-If you are planning on climbing anything in the Bugaboos... try and get up and down by 1:00pm. You could almost keep time by the weather.


All in all it was a great trip, and if it wasn't for the horrid weather we would've been able to accomplish our goals. I think we've scored some good weather points for our next trip :fahq:

Edited by ddpeterson

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