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billcoe

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...once i move back in a month or so.

 

Now there's a genuine nugget of good news amidst all the drama of the latest episode of PRG-Oh. Glad to hear it; are you bringing Mark back with you...?

 

I dont believe Mark is moving back to Ptown.

 

 

Drama.....what drama?

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hey joseph. i am in the process of buying a house and we're supposed to close in the last week of october, so that's when we'd move up. and no, mark will not be coming with me. sniff sniff. i look forward to some rainy day climbing on steep stuff this winter around town, and making the occasional trip over the pass to the good stuff in central or. if you ever want to join me.

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Where's Powderhound, he'd pull this easy.

 

 

I'll be in the Red River Gorge on Monday, 1000's of routes, bolts, gear, mixed...everything in all grades. Time to hang out and crag and finally learn how to climb. Maybe I'll give it a shot when I get back.

 

It looks like a sweet route and its motivating to see PDX'ers getting after it.

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Dustin graciously sent me this link to their new route, showing the FA of "Angle of the Dangle." Dustin and Martin have been pulling a lot of the hard new stuff out there. The leader of this line, Kelton Rappleyea, looks like he's running up it in this film.

 

Real good video & awesome stuff, these guys have been cleaning and working for some time out there !

 

Side note: if you don't like seeing bolts clipped or you have an issue with bolts, don't watch it. If you go ahead and watch it and want to come piss all over the thread, here's a proactive :fahq: right now :lmao:

 

This is for those of you who are still getting out and climbing and appreciate such things. :grin:

 

I can't believe how easy the kid makes it look (anyone under 40 is a kid to me these days:-), who's old?

 

Enjoy it, and thanks to all those guys for the continued hard work since Mark, Kev, Kevin, Crimper, Stewart and the last cleaning crew all drifted off.

 

 

Whats funny is this video make the O look like a solid awesome place to climb. This new route is one of the loosest scariest climbs there. Why else do you think it was the "last" problem to go up? Not because of the grade. But because the base of the climb looks like a war zone with all the rock that had to come off.....lots of it by hand.....I and others had a chance to clean and have ago.....but it was too scarry (I guess we are wimps).....

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I have a question for you portland guys. It looks like there's some steep basalt/choss cliffs around Hood River. Very overhung/cave type stuff. Is there any route development that anyone would care to share about on these cliffs? Not gear placing crap either, strictly sport cliff type things.

Edited by Marty
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I've climbed with Kelton before and he's damn good - he makes lots of routes just flow and look easy to climb... until I get on them and start struggling :crazy:

 

i'd like to see how kelton does on some trad climbing at the same grade. did anybody ask kelton if it was ok to post this on the internet? that climb might get redpointed someday and possibly renamed. i hope kelton is the first to redpoint it. how many times did he do that before he pinkpointed it?

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Curious, but some of you think Just Do it, Action Directe, Realization, and routes like these are still waiting for a legitimate redpoint? At which time they will be renamed?

 

I'll bet you think all the cool kids are listening to Depeche Mode, Flock of Seagulls, and Duran Duran too?

 

 

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no, all the cool kids are listening to sabbath. sabbath is eviland and there is nothing evil about pink pointing a 5.12. i'm just trying to encourage the young lad to own that route. he didn't even name that route, maybe he doesn't even care about that route. that's why i asked if he knew this was goin public.

 

you are comparing apples and oranges my friend. this is aforty foot route for christ sake at at choss crag.

 

STFU, beyotch.

 

 

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  • 1 year later...

Since it's not a "secret" area anymore. Repost of the video of Kelton leading "Angle of the Dangle" at Ozone. Almost 2 years after the first post.

 

[video:google]http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=9093589330085364485

 

Good video work there!

 

Maybe the pinkpoint/redpoint/brownpoint/boltclipping is bad discussion can start over on spray this go-round.

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clipping a fixed piece might mean you don't have to make a 6" to 12" clip. that's alot. however, you do it how you do it and as long as you don't claim you did it in a betteer style than you did it then so what. juyst have fun.
well said...

 

oh, and kevbone, why are always so freakin' negative...you are a member of a peanut gallery...ya couldn't touch the route in question, whether pink or red, yet you just have to whip out your mini-unit and piss on it...

 

christ, bill even asked preemptively to not spray on the thread...

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