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Dean_Lowery

Helmet - which one to buy ?

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Any experience with the Petzl Meteor or Elios class helmets? Or the Edelrid Ultralight? Or any other helmet for that matter. I'm open to suggestion as I try to decide which one to get.

Thanks. [Confused]

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I'd suggest trying a bunch on, and pick the one that fits right. If its comfy, you'll use it more often and be happier doing it. Also, run a search on the Gear Critic category, I know there are already quite a few opinions posted.

 

[ 11-11-2002, 09:32 PM: Message edited by: Off White ]

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if i were to do it over again and buy one helmet it would be the petzl ecrin roc. although a bit on the heavy side [Eek!] it is a workhorse [Wazzup] - made very well, adjusts easily, headlamp stays put, etc. same goes for the edelrid - a very simple design (not much to go wrong in the field).

 

the elios seems like a nice helmet and is lighter than the ecrin. i wasn't impressed with the adjustment system on this helmet - seems too fragile [laf][laf] .

 

i would stay away from the meteor [Eek!] . these types of helmets tend to be less comfortable than suspension style hemets. also, the meteor would likely have to be retired before either the ecrin or elios.

 

so if i were to have one helmet - it would be the ecrin roc (or edelrid). instead i have the half-dome and can't wait to get rid of it. the adjustment system is a joke [Mad] .

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It depends on your head--the only helmet that fit my big old melon head well is the Ecrin Roc. The adjustment system is nice--you can tighten on the spot to improve your climbing ability at the crux, and loosen it to improve your chasual charm with the target sex.

 

I really could use some curb feelers for it, though--I bang it into overhanging crap all the time.

 

Arlen

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bad thing about the ecrin roc is those holes on the sides that whistle constantly. high winds on mountain ridges are annoying enough w/o that feature. I duct tape mine shut sometimes.

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I like the adjustments on the Ecrin Rok. Works well in the summer then I can adjust it out so I wear a hat under it in the winter timer.

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I've got an Elios and it is light, but I've found that the foam inside has some raised bumps that sit on your skull and they become a little painful if you wear the helmet for a full day. Maybe it's my bumpy skull. [geek]

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I think the ecrin roc is the most versatile. Wide adjustment for summer or winter, tough shell you can throw around in the back of the truck or will stand up to flying ice and small rocks without damage. So good for all types of climbing. However, if all you will do is sport climbing, I might check out some of the lighter, bicycle style helmets, that are undoubtedly less durable, but lighter and more comfortable.

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Conlin, White, and just about everybody here make good points: the ecrin roc seems to be one of the most popular, the super light "bicycle style" helmets may not be as durable, and the holes that are designed to ventilate may whistle (they also let in rain and snow), but the most important thing is to TRY THEM ON. And then WEAR IT WHEN YOU GO CLIMBING. Most of my partners own helmets but find a reason not to wear them most of the time.

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Go to different shops and try on different helmets. A good fit is essential. Maybe more people would wear their helmet if it fit better. I've had so many scalp injuries over the years that I wear helmets for climbing, bicycling, skiing, motorcycling, kayaking, and any other activity where I believe I could hurt my head.

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quote:

Originally posted by sisu suomi:

Go to different shops and try on different helmets. A good fit is essential. Maybe more people would wear their helmet if it fit better. I've had so many scalp injuries over the years that I wear helmets for climbing, bicycling, skiing, motorcycling, kayaking, and any other activity where I believe I could hurt my head.

Sisu you bang your head walking in and out of the house. [laf]

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I agree with the try them on comments but alos figure out what kind of climbing you will do. For example the perfect sport climbing helmet is far different than the perfect alpine one.

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quote:

Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman:

quote:

Originally posted by sisu suomi:

Go to different shops and try on different helmets. A good fit is essential. Maybe more people would wear their helmet if it fit better. I've had so many scalp injuries over the years that I wear helmets for climbing, bicycling, skiing, motorcycling, kayaking, and any other activity where I believe I could hurt my head.

Sisu you bang your head walking in and out of the house.
[laf]
Fuck you'd think after enough wacks to the head I'd learn. Its the pit bull in me.

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A lot of great food for thought in the many responses. Thanks one and all. I plan on using the helmet for mixed rock and ice. I've always avoided helmets but I'm old enough to know that sooner or later not wearing one will catch up with me and now is the time to change my dumb ways. Again, many thanks.

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quote:

Originally posted by iain:

bad thing about the ecrin roc is those holes on the sides that whistle constantly. high winds on mountain ridges are annoying enough w/o that feature. I duct tape mine shut sometimes.

You can also buy a set of plugs from Petzl to fill the holes, for a couple of bucks.

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This is my favorite. Recommend "unsung" be played repetitively and loudly while bombing down north facing couloirs loaded with new snow. [Mad][Mad][Mad]

 

-

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I hear the Wotan style helmet is good for ice as you can hang your leashless tools off it or use in opposition with heel spurs for no-hands rest.

 

-

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The Edelrid fits me best, so I use it, but it is also noticeably lighter than the Ecrin Roc, and the Edelrid has a simpler construction. The Ecrin Roc seems over-complicated to me.

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quote:

Originally posted by Nick:

[snip]The Ecrin Roc seems over-complicated to me.

It's not. It works.

 

Really I think it somes down to two things.

 

1)Do you want foam or hardshell? FOam might be good for protecting head in falls, but I have heard 2nd hand of them breaking in peoples packs and stuff. Also there's often more than one rock coming down, and the foam helmets are designed to break in order to absorb impact.

 

2)What model fits? After you figure out 1), then you should try on different models and brands. I, for example, would consider a Putzl Meteor for cragging, but it is so uncomfortable that I know I would never wear it. Other people I know love it.

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I broke an Ecrin Roc in a fall once. What I found out is that while the helmet did the job, the point of failure was not the outer shell, but rather the connector pin from the head band to the shell. There are only two (one by each ear). Had both of them broken, the shell would have seperated completely from the headband (probably falling off) and left me only wearing a headband. Not very good protection for subsequent impacts cantfocus.gif .

 

I replaced the helmet with an Elios Class. The foam padding is glued into place and should not seperate from the shell. I also liked the single adjustment point versus the two dials on the Ecrin Roc as I found it easier to use. I also found the head lamp clips better. The weight reduction was a bonus.

 

greg

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