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[TR] The Witch - Igor Unchained 9/6/2007


Otto

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Trip: The Witch - Igor Unchained

 

Date: 9/6/2007

 

Trip Report:

After a rest day, JMclimber and I headed for the Witch/Sorcerer notch to look at the famous crack climbs there. Decided to get on Igor Unchained to see what Needles 5.9 was like. Vertical and sustained, we were intimidated. John got the first lead so he got two great steep and sustained hand crack pitches, first and third. The second was more laid back, and wider, and still super fun.

 

A look at the wall from the notch above.

Needles_2007_021.jpg

 

The route is the continuous, straight-up line in the left-facing corner. Airy Interlude is up in the yellow wall, left of center.

Needles_2007_024r.jpg

 

Second pitch restful wideness.

Needles_2007_026.jpg

 

The Charlatan and Sorcerer in foreground, The Magician behind.

Needles_2007_031.jpg

 

Two climbers can be seen on The Sorcerer.

Needles_2007_033.jpg

 

The Warlock.

Needles_2007_034.jpg

 

The Charlatan.

Needles_2007_035.jpg

 

When I came up to John at the top of the third pitch, the endorphines may have taken over his mind, but he said that was the best pitch he's ever led. He's been getting it done in the Cascades for 30 years, but I had to agree it's possible.

 

Gear Notes:

Full range up to #4 Camelot.

Photos by John Medosch.

 

Approach Notes:

One hour walk from the campground, stay high as possible under The Magician.

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