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What did you do last Wednesday?


Cairns

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My climbing schedule does not fit the usual mold. I work a 4-on 4-off week.

 

Yesterday nobody called me up to ask, "Andy, do you want to go climbing today?". I felt antipathy.

 

I decided to do something fun and anti-social. I drove up to Squamish using knowledge of when the sun swings around to:

 

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After hiking up to the base of Mercy Me I saw the other climbers were not following the herd, either:

 

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We discussed forming a club but were too busy.

 

I attached 2 ropes to the Mercy Me belay and rapped to the first Cruel Shoes anchor. The plan was to solo toprope Apron Strings (fun and anti-social) and The Flake (no particular reason). I did each 3 times.

 

There was a party on Peasant's and one on Exasperator but that was all. No one came to Apron Strings and there was no iconoclast on Iconoclast.

 

I didn't have the persuasive power to acquire a good-looking red camalot at the start of Apron Strings.

 

Though I did not successfully inconvenience anyone, climbing around in the bright September sunshine all by myself was :grin:

 

 

I kinda wanted to see if the climbers on Exasperator would let me set my rope on it. I could rap to them and retrieve my lines fixed on Mercy Me later but I wasn't sure if one rope would get me down from the Cruel Shoes anchor. I set the rope for the rappel but then remembered I was anti-social.

 

I used the 2 fixed skinny ropes to belay myself back up to the base of Mercy Me.

 

After hiking down I saw that despite having no middle mark I had managed to perfectly equalize the ends of the rope I had left in rappel mode on the Cruel Shoes anchor. That was a mistake. The ends were within easy solo distance of the ground but 5 feet out of reach to the right. I set yet another self belay and made use of an undercling specially placed for lucky people to retrieve the rope.

 

When I got home someone called and asked if I could climb on Thursday.

 

Aww.

 

 

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Gee, 12d underclinging wasn't fun enough by itself, so he seconded it with a pack on?!

 

That is alpine style.

 

I'd like to think they started on Los Zapatos/ Genius Loci / Grinning Weasel. That could explain the pack.

 

They had an exciting time on the free connection back to Perry's.

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Went bouldering with the occasional sound of mountain bikers wizzing past below me. Took a while to warm up but ended up ticking two problems that had spit me off unceremoniously in the past. Enjoyed a nice sunset as the sun went behind the Rockies. But I didn't take purdy pictures like you.

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