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jared_j

Chimney practice?

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I have news, the "5.8" chimney at Yin and Yang in Kraft Rocks is not 5.8 despite what the guidebook says. More like 4th class.

 

If you want, just go to RR and climb Healy's Haunted House and Group Therapy, to the right of Tunnel Vision. If you can cruise both of those in one day then step it up for Epi.

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Thanks for the tip. It'd be good to have a little practice on the same type of rock before committing to Epi (if, in fact, I do commit to it when I go).

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Believe it or not, we established a 25m all-trad-protected corner at Exit 38 that has a chimney crux (maybe 10b) and several other chimney sections (5.8-5.10). It also has a cool lieback in the middle. If you are interested in checking it out send me a pm and I'll take you out there. When this and other new lines are ready for public consumption we'll post something on them.

cheers,

Rad

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Yes the pillar is sustained, but not as much as the Fillibuster pitch of right wing, and not but a little more than half as long too.

-B

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madsen's chimney in leavenworth?

 

Oh my god that thing about killed me. More of an offwidth / squueze than a chimney though and sanbagged for a 5.9.

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If you're in Seattle just head out to the UW Rock. You can get back-foot chimneying down pretty well between the Tower and the wall just SW of it. All you really need for the chimney cruxes on Epi is confidence on easy back-foot chimneying (since there's a good bit of that on Epi, and it's a bit runout).

 

Practice at the UW Rock, and try out Damnation Crack (the chimney on that is similar, easy but runout).

 

The Lizard chimney at Index is harder than anything on Epinephrine.

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I have news, the "5.8" chimney at Yin and Yang in Kraft Rocks is not 5.8 despite what the guidebook says. More like 4th class.

 

Thats discouraging...cuz I cruised that chimney and thought I just had some chimney mojo going on. So Epi chimney is much harder?

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how about hyperspace on snow-creek wall? i was retarded for doing it, but there's a nightmare squeeze chimney on it - complete w/ bramble bushes n' belay slaying blocks! even staying on route through the lower part of the pressure chamber is damned difficult chimney-ish bullshit

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Bottom right edge of Rattlesnake ledge ( east base of main face) has a cool ass flared chimney feature, can TR or boulder it. Prolly 20 feet or so in marginal rock, but nice looking and definitely a skill builder, I'd say mid ten. I did it years ago when me and some friends were stoked on the area. I named it "Binkleys closet of Anxieties 5.10+"

 

 

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