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As a dad, as a climber, and as a concerned person.


RuMR

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As a dad and as a climber this dude ought to be strung up by his gonads. I got an e-mail today from someone who posts here about a climbing incident regarding a guy with two 10 year olds. I hope he sanitizes the e-mail and posts it here. Totally frickin' irresponsible!

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I don't think they're able to understand consequences well enough at that age to make an informed dicision about what's an acceptable risk and what's not.

 

Also, they're probably less likely to snap that bone at a younger age but I've always heard that because their joints aren't fully developed yet, they run a higher risk of permanent joint problems if those areas get injured.

 

I'd let my kids lead but only on overhanging plastic in the gym.

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I think you guys are either behind the times or have never had your kids in a gym climbing edvironment. This is par for the course with plenty of kids in this age range (although 6 is still young) learning to lead in the gym. I tought classes for years in Eugene where if the kids could climb 5.9 without hanging or falling on top rope consistently (onsight) then the next skill they were taught was lead climbing. I had several kids who were able to do this by the time they were 8 and 9 years old (never 6 or 7). They were taught properly and moc lead climbed in the gym for several months (top rope there for back up). Then the training wheels came off and they were leading 5.7 in the gym. I had one girl who was leading 5.10. She is now on the junior team and climbing 5.12.

 

I see no problem taking a kid younger than 10 lead climbing (sport)outside at a place like Smith as long as the draws are pre-placed and the anchor is set up, there is proper supervision and the apprenticeship leading up to lead climbing has not been rushed.

 

Case in point, one of the posters over there who claims to be a climber for years did not know the term "backclip". I will bet you $1,000 every one of the kids I evertaught lead climbing knows what a backclip is, knows why it is bad, and knows how to recognize it from the ground and while on lead.

 

I would not allow a young climber to lead belay any climber. I agee with some of the others responses over on climbing.com with regards to body size in using the chest harness as well as diamter of rope with regards to static falls with lower body weights. This all has to be taken into consideration. I would rather have my kid lead climbing at that age then playing football in Peewee league.

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Here's a question I am sure the answer to which is likely to vary. When you are teaching someone to lead for the first time and you see them back clip, do you always have them fix their mistake on the spot, or do you tell them "don't do it next time"? The reason I ask is that it would seem that even backclipped, you are better off than if you unclipped and fell before you reclipped.

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this kind of thing reminds me of the guided fishing trips my dad used to go on. he had a great time and came home with a ton of fish but the guide did every thing but wipe his ass. just because you are holding the fishing pole when the fish jumps on does not make you a knowledgeable fisherman.

 

same holds true for climbing. you can learn a lot from a class, and going out with guides. but you do not prove your salt as a climber until you are the one making the decisions.

 

I do not let the Things lead. they are in no way focused enough. that is not a slam on my kids... that is age appropriate.

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:tup: muffy

 

ryland, you are a dumb fokk...6 is flat ass too young...and i say that with a kid who hikes 5.11 since he was 6. He's leading now in the gym under VERY controlled circumstances. This started on his 8th birthday...

 

10 or so, maybe i can see it...definitely by 12...USSA climbing doesn't allow competitors to lead in comps until 12.

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Here's a question I am sure the answer to which is likely to vary. When you are teaching someone to lead for the first time and you see them back clip, do you always have them fix their mistake on the spot, or do you tell them "don't do it next time"? The reason I ask is that it would seem that even backclipped, you are better off than if you unclipped and fell before you reclipped.

 

Depends. If it's sketch, I'd have them throw on an extra draw rather than unclip.

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