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Keith_Henson

dangerous rock newbies

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Yesterday on the route hurly-burly at exit 38 I had just reached the anchors and clipped when I felt a tremendous tug on the rope. The guy next to me was top roping another route, fell, pendulumed and grabbed the first thing handy to get control--that being my climbing rope!

 

Really makes you think.

 

Anybody ever been actually pulled off a route like this?

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The first (and last) time I ever climbed at The Feathers, a guy fell from a route next to the one I was just starting and missed kicking me in the head by inches.

That whole place is a freakin' zoo.

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If the climber pendulumed, he was either off route, or was top roping without the draws being left in place when they should have been. I hope you set him straight on the danger he placed you as well as himself.

 

Did the guy fall off of Subliminal, 5.10b, to the right of Hurly Burly? That one looks like it traverses to the left.

Edited by catbirdseat

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There always seems to be something stupid going on in that area mostly because of the noobs

At nevermind we are usually spared such bumbly episodes but recently a guy could not finish a 10-C so he lowered off his last draw just under the anchors, his partner got on the rope to finish it and pulled all the draws except the last one right under the anchors it had everyone there a little nervous to say the least. Saturday a kid showed up with his dad that did not know how to belay and he got on a hard 10-C way over his head after multiple falls he was offered a to have a top rope set up and declined and his dad said why not, some scary stuff was going on, I did noticed he was down by Hurley Burley with his dad when I left.

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If the climber pendulumed, he was either off route, or was top roping without the draws being left in place when they should have been. I hope you set him straight on the danger he placed you as well as himself.

 

Did the guy fall off of Subliminal, 5.10b, to the right of Hurly Burly? That one looks like it traverses to the left.

 

No, he was on the left on Chain Smoken and his friend was giving him belay lessons as we arrived. His friend could really climb and led the 5.10c. I didn't have to straighten him out as his buddy impressed upon him the seriousness of what he had done. The guy who grabbed the rope was totally apologetic and humble. He got it.

 

They were very nice guys.

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the climber is obviously a newbie. no need to cleanse him from the gene pool. we need to take him now as one of our own. he will get better and wiser and stronger, and one day might eat your lunch.

 

we all started as a beginner and some of us may have made mistake. newbies needs coaching, assistance, understanding and our patience. He is trying to be a better climber, perhaps someday, he will be your partner in a epic.

 

have a great day y'all

 

 

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I took my wife and 2 of our gym climbing buddies out to Smith for a weekend. None of the 3 of them had ever climbed outdoors before and were slightly nervous about safety. After watching many of the other climbing groups around us, they were VERY confident in their own technique and mine. It pains me to see friends 'teaching' friends to belay improperly, but it seems to be a common practice.

 

An old saying goes, "it takes a village to raise a child." I feel similarly about climbers. I personally think it's a good thing to point out bad scenarios to others and to help them see the errors of their ways, as long as I'm staying firm but peaceful while doing so.

 

Two words you don't want to hear around you while on belay:

ROCK FIGHT!!!

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I haven't noticed people being taught to belay improperly. Maybe that's more common in sport crags, or maybe I'm just not paying attention.

 

One thing I do see all the time though is newer (or sometimes older!) leaders placing active gear "sideways" -- not alligned in the direction of anticipated pull, but perpendicular to that pull. I've heard many of them say, "oh, the cam can always just rotate. And besides, it's a flexible stem!"

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I haven't noticed people being taught to belay improperly. Maybe that's more common in sport crags, or maybe I'm just not paying attention.

 

One thing I do see all the time though is newer (or sometimes older!) leaders placing active gear "sideways" -- not alligned in the direction of anticipated pull, but perpendicular to that pull. I've heard many of them say, "oh, the cam can always just rotate. And besides, it's a flexible stem!"

sometimes you have no choice...

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There is a big difference between taking what you can get, and fucking up an easy, bomber placement with sloppy gear

Edited by robmcdan

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True enough. And sometimes they rotate into bad placements. :(

Edited by robmcdan

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I haven't noticed people being taught to belay improperly. Maybe that's more common in sport crags, or maybe I'm just not paying attention.

 

One thing I do see all the time though is newer (or sometimes older!) leaders placing active gear "sideways" -- not alligned in the direction of anticipated pull, but perpendicular to that pull. I've heard many of them say, "oh, the cam can always just rotate. And besides, it's a flexible stem!"

 

I climbed with a friends girlfriend and she was placing all the cams perpendicular to pull as well as over camming every one. She had a choice, but did not know any better. To say the least I was unnerved by that and promptly corrected her. Placing gear in direction of fall is so basic (well at least it seems to me). If she did fall the cam could have rotated to a bad placement or got itself stuck. Good $60 mistake. Now if that was your only placement that is a totally different story.

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