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Steph_Abegg

[TR] Slesse - Northeast Buttress 9/14/2007

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Trip: Slesse - Northeast Buttress

 

Date: 9/14/2007

 

Trip Report:

1388890434_d134a2c1d8.jpg

Clint traversing the pocket glacier cirque, sans glacier.

 

When we heard that the pocket glacier on Slesse had slid (sometime near the end of August), Clint Cummins and I revisited our plans to climb the NE Buttress this year. The recent streak of good weather was too good to pass up, so Clint drove north from California, and off we went to climb the Northeast Buttress.

 

We climbed the buttress car-to-car, in 20 hours. It was pitch after pitch of stellar climbing!

 

I have posted a trip report on my webpage as usual. Check it out for lots of photos and other stuff (including an illustration I made of the logging road system).

 

http://sabegg.googlepages.com/slesse

 

Enjoy!

 

 

Edited by Steph_Abegg

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Your pictures are amazing!! you've been busy lately. pingora, the grand, slesse, whats next?

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you've been busy lately. pingora, the grand, slesse, whats next?

 

back to work!

 

got to revisit that pickets traverse though, that's my first thing I have planned for next summer....

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This TR sets a new standard. Was planning to do Slesse this weekend, but my partners not yet healed leg wound from Stuart NR caused us to put it off two weeks. Having all that beta you provide, especially the diagram of the logging roads and the very detailed account of the descent should make it worth the wait. Thanks.

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I did the route last week. Some people seem to not care for it, but I thought that it was amazing. If you don't mind simul-climbing mid 5th and soloing the easy stuff down low, doing it in a day is the way to go for sure. The steep walk down seems never ending though. It would have been nice to have your road map, we spent 2 hours driving around trying to find out where to leave our bikes.

 

A tip for people doing it in a day: if you don't have 2 cars, leave camping gear where you leave your bikes (hopefully you have bikes); that way you can wait to bike down to the main road in the morning when you have a better chance of getting a ride to your car. Otherwise you have a long uphill ride to end your long day.

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Thanks for sharing your climbs with us Steph. Your photos are incredible. That map should prove useful for many people in the future. You should do a coffee table book of your summer! I'd buy it..you went and did many things (actually based on what you did my list has expanded) that I wish I'd get off my ass and go do. definitely inspiring.

 

thanks again

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Nice work. Chris (512dude) and I climbed it a couple days before and found it similar in nature. the 5.10 climbing is nowhere to be found on the lower headwall. wierd.

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I think I hit the 10- pitch, it was going through the overhangs just above a really nice 5.8 crack where the wall steepens up. I thought it was the best pitch on the route. It looked like you could go a couple different ways through there though, so you all must have gone the other way, or I'm just weak.

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It might be by the fixed pin just below the roof, above the 5.8ish cracks? I belayed under the roof at a semihanging stance and Chris lead through, finding no challenges. perhaps we belayed at the hardest move. :crosseye: hmmm...

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I remember those overhangs. Could have been 5.10- (although nice jugs), but it didn't fit the "thin wires" description in the topo....but I agree, it looked like there were possible variations. We chose our route to head for a booty cam and biner we spotted, but we seemed to be on pretty "scuffed" rock from several previous climbers....

Edited by Steph_Abegg

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dan got the crux pitch for sure, it felt 10- to me...although my rope stretcher on the 5.9 loose roof up on the upper headwall with no pro and the rope drag that felt like i was dragging dan up behind me left me wanting to puke and or cuttle up in the fetal position and cry. Slesse is a pretty mountain. Were likeminded steph, i just got back from the winds too! watcha climbing next??

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watcha climbing next??

I don't know, any suggestions? Just started a new job, so back to the real world of non-climbing-bums.... :eek:

Edited by Steph_Abegg

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