Jump to content

[TR] Slesse - Northeast Buttress 9/14/2007


Steph_Abegg

Recommended Posts

Trip: Slesse - Northeast Buttress

 

Date: 9/14/2007

 

Trip Report:

1388890434_d134a2c1d8.jpg

Clint traversing the pocket glacier cirque, sans glacier.

 

When we heard that the pocket glacier on Slesse had slid (sometime near the end of August), Clint Cummins and I revisited our plans to climb the NE Buttress this year. The recent streak of good weather was too good to pass up, so Clint drove north from California, and off we went to climb the Northeast Buttress.

 

We climbed the buttress car-to-car, in 20 hours. It was pitch after pitch of stellar climbing!

 

I have posted a trip report on my webpage as usual. Check it out for lots of photos and other stuff (including an illustration I made of the logging road system).

 

http://sabegg.googlepages.com/slesse

 

Enjoy!

 

 

Edited by Steph_Abegg
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 15
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

This TR sets a new standard. Was planning to do Slesse this weekend, but my partners not yet healed leg wound from Stuart NR caused us to put it off two weeks. Having all that beta you provide, especially the diagram of the logging roads and the very detailed account of the descent should make it worth the wait. Thanks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I did the route last week. Some people seem to not care for it, but I thought that it was amazing. If you don't mind simul-climbing mid 5th and soloing the easy stuff down low, doing it in a day is the way to go for sure. The steep walk down seems never ending though. It would have been nice to have your road map, we spent 2 hours driving around trying to find out where to leave our bikes.

 

A tip for people doing it in a day: if you don't have 2 cars, leave camping gear where you leave your bikes (hopefully you have bikes); that way you can wait to bike down to the main road in the morning when you have a better chance of getting a ride to your car. Otherwise you have a long uphill ride to end your long day.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for sharing your climbs with us Steph. Your photos are incredible. That map should prove useful for many people in the future. You should do a coffee table book of your summer! I'd buy it..you went and did many things (actually based on what you did my list has expanded) that I wish I'd get off my ass and go do. definitely inspiring.

 

thanks again

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think I hit the 10- pitch, it was going through the overhangs just above a really nice 5.8 crack where the wall steepens up. I thought it was the best pitch on the route. It looked like you could go a couple different ways through there though, so you all must have gone the other way, or I'm just weak.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I remember those overhangs. Could have been 5.10- (although nice jugs), but it didn't fit the "thin wires" description in the topo....but I agree, it looked like there were possible variations. We chose our route to head for a booty cam and biner we spotted, but we seemed to be on pretty "scuffed" rock from several previous climbers....

Edited by Steph_Abegg
Link to comment
Share on other sites

dan got the crux pitch for sure, it felt 10- to me...although my rope stretcher on the 5.9 loose roof up on the upper headwall with no pro and the rope drag that felt like i was dragging dan up behind me left me wanting to puke and or cuttle up in the fetal position and cry. Slesse is a pretty mountain. Were likeminded steph, i just got back from the winds too! watcha climbing next??

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




×
×
  • Create New...