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winni2079

Scarpas?

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Anybody climb in the Scarpa Mantas or the Summit GTX? Opinions on fit, feel, and warmth would be appreciated before I drop my season's gear budget on em'. I've been using Alphas for the last 5 seasons so an upgrade is long overdue.

Edited by winni2079

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I have used the summit gtx, but for primarily in summer and fall.

 

Think of them as a jack-of-all-trades climbing boot. They don't stand out as unusually good on any particular terrain, but they don't suck on anything either. I day-tripped something like 6800ft out of the box and didn't even need to adust the laces. Fit is reasonably roomy but not excessively wide. Very, very durable (possibly the best I've encountered). Killer sole material is very durable yet grippy. Also very, very comfortable (cushioning) to walk long distances in. Huge welts will keep crampons in place even after much wear. Very good DWR. Somewhat flexible - the boots suit granite more than limestone. I've used them on ice but with M10s to stiffen the package and add punch. Bulky for precision rock work (Charmoz or Triolet nicer), but they still work well.

 

I haven't used Alphas, but I don't think the Summit would be as warm. In fall I could feel cold through the soles on ice. Not as warm as Nepal Extremes. They might be a nice March option in the CDN rockies, but I'd want more thermo for colder stuff.

 

Overall, the Summit is a boot I would recomend strongly to someone doing serious all-round mountaineering, guiding etc. Unusually high quality. Personally I don't personally see it as a good waterfall or ruth gorge option.

 

GB

 

 

Edited by fishstick

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winni,

 

FS has good stuff to say about the Summit GTX, and he's "captain catalog", so he's worth listening to. the Manta is a worthy alternative though. consider:

 

*** Manta 1930g and cdn$309 (at MEC) vs Summit 2090g and cdn$449 (us$379 at REI) - Manta comes out 160g (6oz) and $140 ahead.

 

*** both have proofed suede uppers, which I normally would not expect to remain highly waterproof for glacier use for very long, but I'm on my 2nd summer with the Mantas and they've out-performed my expectations. the GTX liner in the Summit will provide better waterproofness for sure, but I find GTX footwear kinda sweaty, and therefore avoid it.

 

*** the Summit is lightly insulated, so can be pushed into winter/ice/high mtn use more readily than the Manta. but the Manta therefore fits a tad closer and is a hair less bulky.

 

*** the Summit has a better toe welt on the sole, so can be used with bail-type crampons, whereas i wouldn't trust wire bails to stay on the Mantas - therefore, yoke-style crampons are necessary, which are a definite 2nd choice in my books. (they don't fit as precisely, and the compression of the boot by the straps makes them colder than bails.) that said, I've been totally content using them with Vasaks for summer mountaineering. (I have an older, heavier pair of Scarpa Weisshorns which I use for almost all my waterfall ice outings, with clip-on crampons...)

 

*** I like to fit boots for comfort (two pairs of merino light hikers), and I've never had a hint of rubbing or blistering - they went onto the Slesse traverse straight out of the box... not to mention the 40km walk-out from Beece Creek this summer... etc...

 

*** both have stiff but slightly flexible soles, which work fine for approaches. i prefer the totally rigid sole on the Weisshorns for cramponning - but those aren't available any longer. and they're harder on the feet for walking in.

 

in summation, the boots are close cousins. the Manta has the advantage in cost and weight and is (in my opinion) the nicer summer mountaineering boot; the Summit is likely the better choice for a wider range of activities and seasons. the choice will depend on your preferences and needs, and the compromises you prefer.

 

cheers,

 

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Thanks for awesome info, most use is for gr3/4 with some rock and below 8000' alpine. Conditions range from days of -10 to March hero ice. Most approaches are a mile and then a scramble through talus for a good 200' or more. Did get a spiral fracture of my ankle on a stream approach in 2006 so rock hopping ability is another plus. :grin:

I do prefer a toe bail, and my M10's have a little life left.

Edited by winni2079

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fishstick and Don, just read your posts on the Scarpa Summit's - I have a buddy who is looking at getting them for some spring Oregon Cascade climbing. He wears a size 15, so finding boots that fit isn't exactly easy, but these come in at a 49 (14.5).

 

I'll pass your info on to him. Just wanted to say thanks!

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I have the Mantas, I love them. I use them both winter and summer. I regularly snow-seal the crap out of them and they're super dry, even in sloppy spring snow. :tup:

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I'm looking for some ice/mixed climbing boots. I haven't bought new ice boots in ten years so I know what I want, I just don't know who makes it. My crampons are M10's and I have a pair of Cobras so I need a pretty good performing boot to keep up with my other gear.

I have Dynafit MLK's and they perform pretty well but they are too narrow in the toe and too wide in the heel.

The Alpha seems to get good reviews. My feet are generally warm so the lightness doesn't bother me. My main concern is that my feet are wide and European boots tend to be narrow. Damn those French and their fine bones.

What is a good wide fitting boot for ice/approaches/mixed?

 

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