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Jarred_Jackman

PRUSIK WEST RIDGE SOLO (LIGHT) 9.15.07???

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I'm heading into Prusik to climb the West Ridge Saturday, anybody interested? I'm planning on soloing the route and bringing a thin static line for rapping the standard descent. I don't have a permit so am planning on just hiking in, climbing, then hiking out all via Snow Creek Wall trailhead. I'm planning on getting into town later Friday night and leaving sometime Saturday morning probably in the dark. I will most likely take a little nap in the sun somewhere after the climb. Not looking for a new land speed record, just want to get out and have some fun and see the WR, have only seen the Beckey South route so far. Email jarredjackman@gmail.com if interested.

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you're looking for a partner for solo climbing? :confused:

a brother can't want some small-talk 'long the way?

 

i've done that roundtrip b4 - a long damn hike for just a little climbing - if you can find a partner would def recommend doing 1 of the south face routes instead, or if you want to stick to the dominant hiking theme, then do the circumnav back out through lake colchuck after WR

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Yeah I know, I haven't been climbing much lately and have been hiking a ton and have a new backpack from Gossamer that weighs 16oz and is abut 3900 cubic inches, so I'm stoked to try it out. And I love that area, haven't been in a few years. Do you know how many miles that hike is approx, I was thinking around 9 miles each way but I might be under. Thought also about round trip out AssGuard Pass but wouldn't have a car waiting for me there.

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Jared....I think the approach is ~ 10 miles and ~ 6,000 VF coming up snow lake with the last little bit of it scrambly. We did it in a day last year, and were surprisingly spanked considering it's a pretty nice trail almost the whole way.

 

We timed it so daylight was just breaking as we passed snow lake as the trail is very easy to follow by headlamp.

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Don't do it!

Just sit on the couch.

The hike is too long.

The climbing is too easy.

There is only a view and nothing else.

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Don't listen to those guys. The west ridge is a beautiful route and the enchantments are spectacular (dry, with larches in bloom) this time of year. If you've already done the S. side, the west ridge is well worth it.

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That's what I figured. It's great in there, so what if it's a lot of miles, it's a great feeling at the end of a long day when you know you've spent the day well getting out, rather than wasting the day away.

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sounds like you probably don't need to hear this, but just in case...

the "crux" isn't exactly tough but it's still a relatively exposed slab. what if it drizzles when you're up there? no rope would scare me at least.

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Supposedly it's only 10 feet or so, if it's raining I'll bail before I get to that point, and if it starts after that point, well, I'm past it. I have a rap line with me should I need it.

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Relatively exposed? How about VERY exposed. There's a sequence of more than two no-good-handhold moves above a steep face. That is, if you're soloing and a foot blows, you're dead.

 

I tried soloing it one time after an ascent of the South Face. I kept moving up two moves, moving back down. I couldn't summon the nerve to continue. But that was just me. As they say, YMMV!

 

Good luck!

 

 

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The larches are in bloom?? Is it spring already?

 

Pardon me, the larches have already bloomed. Right now they should be a lovely golden color.

 

And hey, everyone else: WTF?? The guy just wants to go chill out in the mountains for a day, climb some stellar granite, and play with his new gear. It seems like y'all are trying to tell him he should stay at home and read his guidebook all weekend.

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Chuck, thanks for the info. Maybe I'll have to bail as well, don't know. Or maybe I'm taller than you, or shorter, or maybe I'll just be feeling it that day, we'll see. Thanks a lot for the input though. I'll think about taking minimal gear to hold that fall if it should be a concern.

 

take care

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Chuck is right. You have to be long on huevos.

I wasn't either. Neither was my partner. We found a stuck chunk of rope around to the left, freed it and used it and a couple found slings to protect the moves.

 

Can you get out of work at 2PM Friday?

If so, join me for the West Ridge of Stuart for Fri-Sat.

Similar views and 10X the 5.4 climbing.

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Can't get out and to Stu that early. Plus I've soloed the WR and climbed with partners multiple times, I love Stuart, but just want to go somewhere else this time. I have to be in the Lworth area this wkend, so Prusik seemed like a good idea.

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Well now I'm spooked about the exposed section and don't want to go all that way just to bail. So I'm going to ride my bike from Lworth to Steven's and back. If anyone is headed to Prusik, have fun!

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whaaaaaat?

 

dude - seriously that "exposed bit" is easy, easy, easy - have you soloed much rock before? if you have, i can't imagine it would freak you out

 

and when soloing, when are you not really on an "exposed section?"

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No worries, I'll get to it. I just don't want to have to bail after that many miles due to one short section. I've soloed the WR of Stuart and some of the 5.8s at index, some other random cracks. Oh well, I'm super stoked for many many many miles on the road bike. Take Care

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