Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber


      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  

[TR] chillawack - direct NE buttress, slesse 8/31/2007

Recommended Posts

Trip: chillawack - direct NE buttress, slesse


Date: 8/31/2007


Trip Report:

this is my first posting. I use this site alot and have not seen much on slesse this summer, so I thought the info might be appreciated. We did the direct NE buttres on slesse yesterday. We climbed as 3-some (me, my wife, and a friend)My friend , Dave Oleske was filming for the "Direct Becky Project" which will be a documentary on Fred's life. Check it out by googling "through a childs eyes productions" (he needs funding)

anyway, the route went slower as a filming threesome , but we still made back to the car at the base (car shuttle) in a day (23 hours) . The route was great, kind of non-descript and dirty in places on the lower 3rd with lots of variations possible, and then great finishing pitches. All the crashing icefalls in the area add alot of alpine feel and noise to the climb. The descent was ...well..just like all the books say, long and steep but with a pretty good trail.

Everyone can read the books, the real reason I am writing this is to comment on the approach.


Gear Notes:

Medium rack to 3

we used twin ropes for 3 people, and they were nice but not totally needed for the descent raps

no ice axe, no crampons

dont forget the headlamp


Approach Notes:

We took the standard approach in the book, except we missed the lower cut-off trail to the by-pass glacier abd found ourselves at the propeller carin in 2 hours from the car. We hiked up and down looking for the lower tral and finally just ended up traversing at about 450 meters, through the trees, arround to the bypass glacier. THE BYPASS GLACIER HAS SLID, yeeeehaw. There are still a few big ice cubes, but you can basically cruise accross the slabs in your sneakers.

Edited by jwrockport

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank you for this info about fred (and your climb).

I didn't know about this documentary.

Pictures are fantastic. Can't wait to see the final product.



Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Planning on doing this route on the weekend of Sept. 15/16. Wondering if anyone else had the same thing in mind and we could work something out with cars. Are the roads to the approach and descent in reasonable shape?

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

the road used for the descent is fine until the last 2k where it gets a little rough for a 2wheel drive (easy 4 wheel)


the drive for the approach is fine all the way for 2 wheel drive.

there is a small sign and flagging for the start

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites



Thanks for posting the conditions update on the bypass glacier. That was just the news we had been hoping to hear, so after your report we made plans and climbed it on September 14th (trip report by Steph on this forum).

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this