Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
Blake

first ascent [TR] Cutthroat Wall - The Perfect Crime (F.A. 5.9 III) 8/10/2007

Recommended Posts

Trip: Cutthroat Wall - The Perfect Crime (F.A. 5.9 III)

 

Date: 8/10/2007

 

Trip Report:

A few weeks ago, Max Hasson and I did a new route on what I'm calling "the Cutthroat Wall", near Washington Pass. The top of the wall (and top of the climb) can be seen from the Cutthroat Lake Trailhead, but most of the wall cannot.

 

The climb was done in 5 pitches (most were 60m) and featured very good rock and some fun moves. It was all pretty neat to be anble to walk up to a wall like that, one hour from the car, and climb a new free route of good quality, hence naming it "The Perfect Crime." Dan and I repeated it the other day, and he liked it as well.

 

Here's a small topo, the larger version is linked below.

Cutthroat_wall_Topo.JPG

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/503/Cutthroat_wall_Topo.JPG

 

Climbing begins at the right toe of the buttress, above a small cairn, and just left of ~6 dead silver snags in a group.

 

The first two pitches begin with a steep bouldery step, before angling on nice cracks, slabs, and a couple short/steep corners. Generally begin going up/left and follow the cleanest line of least resistance.

Perfect_Crime.JPG

 

The 3rd pitch has you undercling and layback rightward along a nice crack, before overcoming a roof. This roof is smaller and further rightward than the other prominent roofs.

 

roof_on_p3.JPG

 

another view...

 

Perfectcrime_belay3.JPG

 

You'll know you are on route if you climb to the left of, then above a spiral-trunked "barber poll" tree.

 

The 4th pitch goes up a steep crack from the belay ledge, traverses right across bulletproof orange rock, then follows a hand/fist crack up to a nice patio belay spot.

 

The 5th pitch begins with a face climb traverse right, then beautiful splitter cracks (4" then 1") for most of 60m, to where the angle eases off and the flat summit can be reached.

 

perfect_ow.JPG

 

and

 

splitter_tops.JPG

 

 

From the top, you can scramble up to the ridge and look down on the Hwy20 hairpin.

 

For descent, walk across the flat summit (cairn) to where the crest narrows before you'd need to climb up again. Look for a pine tree on the right with a yellow runner. Make one 20m rappel down to the right, then contour at that elevation, skier's left around the head of a gulley and walk down/left on timbered rib to the base of the wall.

 

The rock is overall very good, well protected, and with nice views. Every belay is on a comfy ledge, but with a 50m rope you'd need to do it in more pitches. Every pitch is rated 5.9 except the first pitch (5.7) and cruxes are short. At only 45mins-1hour from the car, this might make a good alternative to other routes in the area, especially if traffic gets more of the pine needles off the cracks. Feel free to email me if you want more detailed info about anything. A written topo is attached.

 

Gear Notes:

One set of nuts

 

Cams from finger tips to #4 camalot (needed for last pitch)

 

Doubles in finger-hand sizes

 

Approach Notes:

From the Cutthroat Lake TH, walk up the old road bed for ~5 minutes, then head left up the hill into the brush. The brush is moderate at first, then the forest is pretty open and easy until moderate brush for the last couple hundred feet. The route begins at the far right (west) side of the wall. From the base of this route, the toe of the "Snout" is a ~10 minute level traverse across open ground, so one could combine a climb of those routes as well.

 

Climb Location

3785-PerfectCrimeDescription.doc

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice Blake! That was on my "secret list" and I totally forgot about it, I'm glad you got it - you're kicking ass!!!! Awesome job.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×