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Adam13

Sport v Trad

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not into sport climbing. maybe i would feel more at home if i hung a #4 off my harness.

Edited by pink

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i go with large hexes...min. of two...that way, you get the visual AS WELL AS the audio effect!

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OK Final example:

 

Heinous Cling (Short)

 

Pre-retro bolt no scarier than post retro-bolt.

 

"trad" gear was totally bomber RPs.

or the karate wall routes...there is some big air on those with a decent run on pumped arms to the top...wussy routes for sure!

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IMO crack climbing on gear takes WAY more mental preparation than clipping bolts. Falling 20 feet knowing a bolt will catch you is way easier on my mind than falling 20 feet onto piece that very well could have walked up the crack……

 

Crack climbing is harder….

 

End of story.

 

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whatever...a cam in solid rock is FINE...same thing as a bolt, IMO (or as you prefer END OF STORY)...just ask JH, he'll tell you he doesn't trust bolts! :lmao:

 

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yeah...i do...

 

and tommy trained exclusively for sport for years...so did sonnie

 

 

They all trained on sport….thats how to get strong for crack…..you said they STARTED as hard core sport climbers.

 

Tommy was taught to climb by his father who by all trades was and is a trad climber. Tommy was taught to climb gear……then turned to sport years later.

 

 

i love it...you are making my point for me! dumbarse...sheesh, this is what i was saying to sherri at the very beginning...

 

I better understand what your point was now, RuMR. I hadn't thought of how working on the finesse and athleticism on the sport routes might have laid a good foundation for the crack and face skills necessary for doing the trad routes well. At the time I transitioned to trad, there was such a gap between what I could do in that vs. how quickly I'd progressed in sport(relatively speaking, of course) that I felt like I was learning to climb all over.

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IMO crack climbing on gear takes WAY more mental preparation than clipping bolts. Falling 20 feet knowing a bolt will catch you is way easier on my mind than falling 20 feet onto piece that very well could have walked up the crack……

 

Crack climbing is harder….

 

End of story.

sounds like you may have mental issues trusting/placing gear? If you know the gear is good, it might as well be a bolt, right? Plus, you yourself placed it, and its your piece...this means you have intimate knowledge of that piece of gear and its position, so you should have decent confidence in it, right?

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sounds like you may have mental issues trusting/placing gear? If you know the gear is good, it might as well be a bolt, right?

 

 

 

Plus, you yourself placed it, and its your piece...this means you have intimate knowledge of that piece of gear and its position, so you should have decent confidence in it, right?

 

I cant believe I have been sucked into this conversation.

 

What if when you placed the piece it was solid as a rock then it walked out and now you don’t really know if its good or not and you are 20 out…….a hole different game them clipping bolts.

 

I have no problem climbing on gear of falling on gear.

 

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??? Why would it walk if you placed it correctly and slung it correctly?? :confused:

 

If you "have no problem climbing on gear or falling on gear" then why do you maintain that one is scarier/more difficult than the other? I can buy that you need more stamina to simply place it as opposed to clipping a hanger, but that is the only difference. If one were pinkpointing on gear or bolts, it would be IDENTICAL...

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??? Why would it walk if you placed it correctly and slung it correctly?? :confused:

 

If you "have no problem climbing on gear or falling on gear" then why do you maintain that one is scarier/more difficult than the other? I can buy that you need more stamina to simply place it as opposed to clipping a hanger, but that is the only difference. If one were pinkpointing on gear or bolts, it would be IDENTICAL...

 

I was going to answer you but realized there is no answer. You are right and I am wrong…..

 

Too bad there is not right of wrong…..only opinion.

 

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Except that gear is never as strong as bolts, even when it's considered excellent. The most bomber piece you can imagine is about half the strength of a bolt.

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RuMr, you are hilarious. I done a few climbs where the pro was just BAD.

CATS AND DOGS...

 

You can get on a poorly protected route, and that is your choice...

 

my point was, well placed gear is as effective as a bolt...bad pro is equivalent to a shitty spinner...what was your point?

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In the alpine, you generally take what you get. Unless of course, you want to only climb those 10% of summits with great rock. Many others have pro that is not too great to say the least. In other words, trad routes are more challenging that sport routes. Just my opinion here.

 

 

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Duh! one's choice of route obviously affects quality of protection, i might turn it around and say that about the safest climbing i've seen is at indian creek...get scared, plug something in, continue chugging...

 

 

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Adam 13

Dont fert, there is nothing wrong with not knowing or asking questions because you want to know. But what all those sex with rocks wankers seem not to realize is that climbing is a huge "SPORT" encompasing everything from boulders to Mt Everest. The size of ones balls has nothing to do with it, only the size of ones will. I myself are into ice and alpine and enjoy every minute of it and don't try to draw lines between them. If you wan't to go climb in the mountains some day let me know.

 

Peter Way

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:rawk:

 

Your pictures! :rawk:

 

All I have is butt shots and banana slugs in cracks:-(

 

And don't even have those for today climbing, although I have hopes!

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Trad climbing's fun, sport climbing's fun, bouldering's fun. Just count yourself lucky to be climbing and not worrying about getting your next meal or a roof over your head. If you have a problem with someone's preferred method of fun simply because you think what you do is superiour then you're an asshole who doesn't deserve to have any fun. If you're enjoying yourself then you might enlighten others but if you take yourself too seriously you're only going to isolate yourself. Unless that's what you want to happen.

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... If you're enjoying yourself then you might enlighten others but if you take yourself too seriously you're only going to isolate yourself. Unless that's what you want to happen.

So... if I want to isolate myself it won't happen?

 

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:rawk:

 

Your pictures! :rawk:

 

All I have is butt shots and banana slugs in cracks:-(

 

And don't even have those for today climbing, although I have hopes!

Don't you just hate it when a banana slug takes that perfect finger lock spot that you need to get off the ground?

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