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Adam13

Sport v Trad

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The whole Sport/trad thing is a marketing scam.

 

1) Get on the Antidote (Index) and tell me footwork doesn't matter.

 

2) Get on Lizard King (Si) and tell me those runouts aren't commiting.

 

3) Go to Indian Creek and wonder why everyone has all their hard sends there. ( Mindless pro, easy ratings, and robot technique)

 

As in anything climbing is what you make it.

Edited by Peter_Puget

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Taking elite climbers as universal examples doesn't necessarily transfer.

 

For most of the moderate climbers I know where they have the most room for growth is mental not physical/technical. They lead 2, 3, or more grades below what they can flash on top rope, and it's purely headspace, and in IMHO that can be developed faster leading trad then sport. In fact I only climb with 1 person who can lead at the same level he can top rope, and he scares me some times :)

By definition, if they elevated their technical ability, they wouldn't be considered moderate...

 

honestly, how do you fall off a 5.10 handcrack??????? Do you let go, turn around and then jump????

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trad climbing and pure splitter crack climbing are two seperate categories.

notice that i have never said TRAD climbing...only CRACK climbing...

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with cracks there is normally pro everywhere (with modern gear), but traditional is more necky. the black canyon or eldorado canyon would be the epitome trad climbing to me.

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The whole Sport/trad thing is a marketing scam.

 

1) Get on the Antidote (Index) and tell me footwork doesn't matter.

 

2) Get on Lizard King (Si) and tell me those runouts aren't commiting.

 

3) Go to Indian Creek and wonder why everyone has all their hard sends there. ( Mindless pro, easy ratings, and robot technique)

 

As in anything climbing is what you make it.

hahahaha...you like my bolting on Lizard King???? Hahahaha...DoctorK wouldn't let me stick another bolt in...got a bloody nose bolting that thing...

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and sport climbers only use about a fourth of there brain. kinda like me when i'm spraying with all you yahoos.

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with cracks there is normally pro everywhere (with modern gear), but traditional is more necky. the black canyon or eldorado canyon would be the epitome trad climbing to me.

never climbed in the black...spent a lot of time at eldo though...eldo is all face/pebbles/pinches...train hard sport and you'll do fine at eldo...

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and sport climbers only use about a fourth of there brain. kinda like me when i'm spraying with all you yahoos.

only 1/8th actually...

 

gee, i guess that leaves you with what? like 2 brain cells?

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Lizard King is scarier than many trad Eldo routes known for their boldness when first ascended:

 

eg: Wide Country, Black Walk

 

 

 

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pretty clean falls cuz its so damn steep...they would be absolutely enormous if you blew it though, plus factoring in rope stretch and what not...i think you could potentially go for 80+ feet...

 

 

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is lizard king a sport climb?

yes...very well bolted start (courtesy of Mr. Burdo) into endurance climbing with a smattering of bolts...

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It is but I can go one and name many more to take its place. I chose LK because it's at Si. Land of pussies according to the gentry here.

 

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It is but I can go one and name many more to take its place. I chose LK because it's at Si. Land of pussies according to the gentry here.

:lmao:

 

all of the hard routes there have some commitment to them...that's why i laugh when the clowns on this board start sprayin' shit...hahahaha

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Or Split Image? At first I was worried I would find it hard but then I realized it was a SPORT route and all the clips easy and footwork not required!

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Hey Pink ever lead Close Shave?

i don't know personally anyone that has besides Alan...Did you do it, Peter?

 

Man, i'd love too, but too spooky for me...according to AW its actually not so bad...

 

Man, he was incredible in his day...the quintessential/penultimate sport climber that goes down to the valley and kicked their asses at their own game...

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Or Split Image? At first I was worried I would find it hard but then I realized it was a SPORT route and all the clips easy and footwork not required!

balance balance balance...

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Hey Pink ever lead Close Shave?

 

no. what and where?

 

monkey face...12c

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R -

It's a pussy sport route! Of course I haven't climbed it but I did check it out....man give me one of them "he-man" trad routes any day.

 

Close Shave is at Smith. Just referring to ORE routes for our southern folk.

Edited by Peter_Puget

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