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skibum123

first ascent [TR] anderson river valley, les Cornes - FA of "Voodo child" and FA of " Srung Cock Errect" 9/17/2007

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Trip: anderson river valley, les Cornes - FA of "Voodo child" and FA of " Srung Cock Errect"

Date: 9/17/2007

Trip Report:

Hello yall. Did a few new routes in the Anderson River valley last year. I've been meening to get a post out forever. Here is some route info so you can do them. the Sprung Cock Errect (sorry but we couldn't stop calling it that) is excelent !!! It has the best climbing on the mountain. I have climbed all the routes on the mountain and can safetly say that it is the best. All pitches are high quality and very clean.

Another great option would be to climb the first 3 pitches of SCE and continue up the original route when you hit the easy ramp. This avoids the total choss of the SBA and climbs 2 pitches of 3 star 5.10 and one pitch of 5 star 5.10+ ( overhanging hands!) The first 3 pitches have bolted belays and a few protection bolts as well. Voodo child has a five star Split pillar on the second pitch (very close to the pillar in Squamish, but a harder size)

Topo: showphoto.php?photo=31107&nocache=1

Discrip: showphoto.php?photo=31105

photo of routes: showphoto.php?photo=31106&cat=504

 

 

Gear Notes:

Voodoo Child, double set of cams from #1 TCU's to #2 BD, Single Small TCU's and #3 and 4 BD.

Sprung Cock Errect, double set of cams to #4 BD (you can bring one #4 for the OW if your feeling strong, its only 5.7) extra finger peices for the top 5.11- pitch.

 

Approach Notes:

for more info contact me at craigskibum@yahoo.com

Edited by skibum123

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There is a new approach to these climbs. Take Anderson main as usual than turn right up into the valley than take next right up towards the Anderson group. This new approach detours south at the point the overgrown logging road splits and heads north towards Chamois. Follow the flagging if it's still there. Or if not follow the logging road as per the guidebook but instead of turning back north and following that road go straight south until you reach old growth forest. Than climb steep bank and climb through the open forest until you hit the rock slide below les cornes. Hope this helps. We usually drive all the way up to the point where you turn and backtrack towards Chamois. Than we walk, my paint job has never looked better!!

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