Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber


      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  

[TR] Fernow, 7FJ, Maude - Speed Climb 8/11/2007

Recommended Posts

Trip: Fernow, 7FJ, Maude - Speed Climb


Date: 8/11/2007


Trip Report:

I speed climbed Mount Fernow, Seven Finger Jack, and Mount Maude in 11 hours, 13 minutes roundtrip out of the Phelps Creek Trailhead/Leroy Basin. I started with Fernow because I figured this was the most involved and physically taxing mountain and ended with Maude so I could walk off the easy South shoulder at the end of the day. This climb was less on the mileage (~25 miles) and more on the elevation gain with an estimated 13,000 feet of gain and four separate climbs! I found that the key to climbing the Entiat Mountains fast is to find (and stay) on solid rock as much as possible. Since this was my first time in the Entiat, I made a few routefinding errors that cost me some time, but it went smoothly overall.


Location (Elevation): Time Elapsed / Split / Real Time

Trailhead (3,500 ft) : 0 / 0 / 06:20

Leroy Creek turnoff (4,100 ft) : 28.01 / 28.01.01 / 06:48

[Col west of 7FJ (7,700 ft) : ~1:50 elapsed, ~08:10 real time]

Arrive Fernow Summit (9,249 ft) : 3:51.21 / 3:23.20 / 10:11

Depart Fernow Summit (9,249 ft) : 4:06.41 / 15.19.47 / 10:27

Col west of 7FJ (7,700 ft) : 5:51.27 / 1:44.46 / 12:11

Arrive 7FJ Summit (9,100 ft) : 6:47.28 / 56.01.19 / 13:07

Depart 7FJ Summit (9,100 ft) : 7:02.47 / 15.18.55 / 13:23

Arrive Maude Summit (9,040 ft) : 8:55.01 / 1:52.14 / 15:15

Depart Maude Summit (9,040 ft) : 9:13.30 / 18.28.91 / 15:33

Leroy Creek turnoff (4,100 ft) : 10:48.34 / 1:35.03 / 17:09

Phelps Creek Trailhead (3,500 ft) : 11:13.11 / 24.37.36 / 17:33


I departed Sammamish at 3:30 am and arrived at the Phelps Creek trailhead at 6 am, setting off at 6:20 am after some breakfast bars. The first 3.7 miles were easy and I ran it in 28+ minutes. The trail is in much better shape than the access road! From here I turned up the Leroy Creek trail and began the power climb, going from 4,100 ft to the 7,700 foot col west of Seven Finger Jack in 1 hour, 20 minutes. From the col, you must descend an annoying and loose 1,200 feet to the old moraine of the Gloomy Glacier to begin the southwest route. On the way to Fernow, I had to avoid snow since I left my crampons at home so I went down to the small lake and around the buttress on its south side. On the way back I ascended to the col directly from the moraine on snow/talus slopes on the north side of the buttress (the snow had softened some). The route up Fernow was surprisingly solid and the slabby rock had natural steps cut into it making a 2,000 foot staircase and allowing for a fast ascent. I was elated to reach the summit of Mount Fernow 3:51 after starting at the trailhead.



It was a gorgeous morning and coolish temps were great for moving fast



Glacier Peak.



The deep blue skies in the morning were spectacular!



Dakobed Range close-up panorama.



North Face of Mount Maude and Seven Finger Jack.



Seven Finger Jack and Mount Rainier from Mount Fernow.



Bonanza and Ptarmigan Traverse Peaks. Notice smoke from fire near Holden.







View from along the descent of Fernow.



What's left of the Gloomy Glacier.



Route up the snow/talus slopes to the 7,700 ft col west of 7FJ from Gloomy glacier moraine.



Rugged Entiat Crest from Seven Finger Jack to Mount Fernow.



Small Lake below 7,700 ft col


The walk back up to the 7,700 ft col from the Gloomy moraine was tiresome and the trail shoes were not getting great traction on the harder/steeper snow. However, I knew the most taxing part of the day was over. After a break, I climbed up the slopes from below the col to the right skyline of 7FJ and then up the standard slog route, arriving at the summit of Seven Finger Jack 6:47 after beginning.



Seven Finger Jack from 7,700 ft col.



Entiat River Valley from the summit of Seven Finger Jack.



Bonanza and Ptarmigan Peaks from Seven Finger Jack.



Mount Fernow from Seven Finger Jack.



North Face of Mount Maude from Seven Finger Jack.


I descended 7FJ via the standard route, arriving at a nice snowmelt stream on a bench below 7FJ where I drank and ate. This was the first running water since Gloomy glacier moraine so I was thirsty! From here I continued up the West Slope of Mount Maude which featured enjoyable class 3 scrambling on solid rock. A nice walk through the tundra meadows brought me to the summit 8:55 after beginning.



View from below Seven Finger Jack at a snowmelt stream.



Summit of Mount Maude with high clouds streaming in already!



Me with 7FJ and Fernow in the background.



View to 7FJ and Fernow from Mount Maude. A traverse between Fernow and 7FJ looks feasible, but hauling the requisite gear would slow everything else down!


From the summit of Maude, I made my way down the upper south shoulder easily, but somehow missed where to descend on the lower portion into Leroy basin and ended up forging my own pathway through larch trees and cliff bands. Once I hit the trail, it was cruise control down Leroy Creek to Phelps Creek. I had some hop to my step at the bottom so I picked up the pace and ran the last 3.7 slightly downhill miles in 24 minutes.




I saw lots of people on the trail on the way out, but I had the mountains to myself all day. A great climb!


Gear Notes:



Approach Notes:

Trail in great shape; road could be better. Super fast elevation gain up Leroy Creek.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

That is smokin fast, Good job that day! Lot of rugged ground to cover I have heard -from JoshK, He did the same trip though not nearly as fast

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Do the rest of us a favor and start smoking unfiltered camels and supplementing each meal with a pack of hostess Ho-Ho's....


Seriously though - smoking fast. Thanks for the report and the photos.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

What an awesome thing to do! The pix are great too. Congratulations!


I was hiking up the Phelps Creek trail on Saturday morning with my black shaggy dog, when you passed me (about 6:30 or so), I about jumped out of my skin--wasn't expecting someone to come up from behind so fast!


So how do you keep in shape to do things like this, especially during the winter? (hmmm, well I see one thing that probably helps--you live in California where winters are not so bad...)



Edited by theLarch

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

theLarch, I hope you had a great day in the mountains! I basically just run in the winter to stay in shape; and you are right, it's easier to go out for a run with the better winter weather in CA.





Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

That was not only a superfast climb, but you burned a lot of calories heading up those 9K plus rocks for sure, however, I would be more impressed if you had taken the Carne Mountain High Route back and tagged 7K Carne as well. The old sheepherders high route is still there but it would have slowed you down in places, until you hit the Carne Mountain Trail that drops in on the Phelps Creek trail about 1/4 mile from the parking area. Awesome job and great pictures! What's next - Logan, Storm King, and Goode in 12 hours?

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this