gertlush Posted August 7, 2007 Share Posted August 7, 2007 Trip: Joffre area - Joffre enchainment Date: 8/5/2007 Trip Report: Did the enchainment as described in Alpine Select. Bivied at the head of Tszil creek. Climbed the snow slope on T-shizzle's north face, over the ridge to Rex's pillar, down & around to Matier & up the West Buttres (nice route) then descend the standard route and up Joffre's south ridge which had a couple of nice pitches on it. Then found some loose gully, got down to the glacier and descended to the lakes. Left camp at 5am and got back to the car at 10pm. None of the climbing was too technical there was just a lot of ground to be covered. Plus there were a lot of transitions between different types of terrain. Pretty fun but by the end of it I was burnt out to say the least. Some scenery: About this point I was thinking of quitting alpine climbing for good: A friend: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zoran Posted August 7, 2007 Share Posted August 7, 2007 (edited) Excellent! Congratulations on this climb. Couple of years ago we climbed Tzil's North West Face but I quit after the West ridge of Rex pillar and return to lakes through glacier. I was not able to finish it. You are very strong. Our plan was to climb Joffre after Matier to complete the Enchainment. You did it in a day which is outstanding. Good work. Z Edited August 8, 2007 by Zoran Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Layback Posted August 8, 2007 Share Posted August 8, 2007 Nice job & great pics! I am doing Matier this weekend via the NW Face. I am curious, was there any ice? What gear do you think would be helpful? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gertlush Posted August 8, 2007 Author Share Posted August 8, 2007 (edited) I'm still fairly new to snow & ice but it looked pretty good to me. My partner is more experienced and he said it looked in great shape. We didn't encounter any ice & the snow was nice & firm. Tszil was a similar slope, a bit lower angled, and we climbed it with normal mountaineering axes & crampons. The bergschrunds have opened up quite a bit so you'll have to zig zag a little. That NW face looks really cool, if there was one line up there that really caught my eye that was the one. -I found a piccie of it, looks sweet... Edited August 8, 2007 by gertlush Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Layback Posted August 8, 2007 Share Posted August 8, 2007 Thanks - That is very helpful. I appreciate it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BackCountryPunk Posted August 10, 2007 Share Posted August 10, 2007 U rawk mate!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.