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[TR] Joffre area - Joffre enchainment 8/5/2007


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Trip: Joffre area - Joffre enchainment


Date: 8/5/2007


Trip Report:

Did the enchainment as described in Alpine Select. Bivied at the head of Tszil creek. Climbed the snow slope on T-shizzle's north face, over the ridge to Rex's pillar, down & around to Matier & up the West Buttres (nice route) then descend the standard route and up Joffre's south ridge which had a couple of nice pitches on it. Then found some loose gully, got down to the glacier and descended to the lakes. Left camp at 5am and got back to the car at 10pm.


None of the climbing was too technical there was just a lot of ground to be covered. Plus there were a lot of transitions between different types of terrain. Pretty fun but by the end of it I was burnt out to say the least.


Some scenery:








About this point I was thinking of quitting alpine climbing for good:




A friend:



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Congratulations on this climb.

Couple of years ago we climbed Tzil's North West Face but I quit after the West ridge of Rex pillar and return to lakes through glacier. I was not able to finish it.

You are very strong.

Our plan was to climb Joffre after Matier to complete the Enchainment.

You did it in a day which is outstanding.

Good work.



Edited by Zoran
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I'm still fairly new to snow & ice but it looked pretty good to me. My partner is more experienced and he said it looked in great shape. We didn't encounter any ice & the snow was nice & firm. Tszil was a similar slope, a bit lower angled, and we climbed it with normal mountaineering axes & crampons. The bergschrunds have opened up quite a bit so you'll have to zig zag a little.


That NW face looks really cool, if there was one line up there that really caught my eye that was the one.


-I found a piccie of it, looks sweet...



Edited by gertlush
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