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Spencer

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Is it ok to ask for feedback on this group?

I recently read there newsletter and checked there website, I have never been very good at planning my climbs months ahead of time, so I am not sure this would work very well for me. this forum is great for this.

I would love to hear what others think.

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I am not a troll, and not sure why that would even have to be said, I don't believe they compete in anyway with this forum do they? i have already decided to not join this group, however alot of people seem to go this way, it is only recently that I have combined the Internet and my climbing, I have for years done it the old fashioned way with friends and family. but as I get a little older (44) many of them have lost intrest, so here I am.

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Use the search engine on CC.COM. Enter "Mountie".

Or just post for partners on the Partner forum and be honest about your ability level.

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I have never been very good at planning my climbs months ahead of time

 

I would love to hear what others think.

 

I think you're going to find it hard to plan your trips months in advance in the PNW. Sure you can get a general idea of what you want to do, but committing to something more than a couple days in advance isn't a good idea. The mounties make you sign up long in advance of a trip.

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Sorry, didn't mean to accuse you of anything. The Mountaineers have served as an internet punching bag frequently here, sometimes deservedly, sometimes unfounded.

 

Many people feel it's inherently unsafe or just inappropriate to head into wild places with a bunch of people you don't really know each time, in a large group, often where only a couple in that group really know what's going on. If those leaders are solid, things can be smooth. If they are not-so-solid, things can get ugly.

 

These organizations can provide a regimented learning environment that works well for a lot of people. Others prefer to have a mentor of some kind introduce them to the hard lessons of mountaineering in a one-on-one situation. Many people don't have the luxury of someone patient enough to do this, however. But many experienced climbers learn to realize how rewarding it can be to help guide someone on their first outings, even if they are not challenged by the route itself. It can be quite an accomplishment to safely navigate a complete novice through tricky terrain and have that person feel safe at all times.

 

There are plenty of folks from the Mountaineers on here who can chime in about the internals of the organization. This is simply a perspective from someone outside, who has met them "in the field". I have met some great, highly-competent individuals from the club, and some who I never want to be near again in the mountains.

 

Sorry for the pontification!

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cobracommander -

 

you'll have to pass the Mountaineers evaluation exam before you are qualified to hold an opinion on the Mountaineers

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Thanks! I truly am a newbie when it comes to Internet Mountaineering, you have certainly helped me along with that. I also prefer this type of forum to a overly organized system, and have already benefited from my short membership to this forum.

 

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you'll have to pass the Mountaineers evaluation exam before you are qualified to hold an opinion on the Mountaineers

 

Dammit I thought the week-long prusiking seminar was enough.

 

My main concern is if just one of those many total strangers with you in a group trip blows up for some reason, it becomes your problem. Hopefully the leader is observant and situationally aware.

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Spencer....I think it is very possible to find good partners here...I've only tried it once, and found a phenomenal rope gun (thanks Blake!).

 

That said, you never know what you are going to get, and to make sure you head out with a partner that knows what they are doing, you yourself need to have enough experience to ask questions and guage their experience prior to the trip, as well as evaluate their ability level on the climb itself.

 

I've heard of one case in particular where someone hooked up with a partner on this board and was quite far into a popular, but remote north face snow and ice route when they realize their partner did not know basic crevasse rescue skills. In another case, an unnamed newbie undersold his lack of experience to a partner located on this board, and did some really stupid wreckless things to endanger him and his partner...let's just say I don't think they climbed together again, and frankly he will probably have extreme difficulty getting partners here in the future due to the description of the trip that was posted here. When Blake posted for a partner, I pulled some of his TRs (FAs, etc.), and quickly realized that it was me that was going to be the liability. That said, I was pretty transparent about my own moderate ability level with him, we selected appropriate routes, and had a great couple days in the mountains.

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cbs is busy weighing hexes with his triple beam balance

 

I can sell you mine.

 

perlon slung, $50 for the set.

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Clearly you did not attend the Mountaineers Sling Symposium (MSS 07, Enumclaw), as you would know perlon is woefully insufficent on the slow-pull at the diameter needed to sling hexes.

 

Don't worry, I've already reported this incident to the Slinging Judge Advocate General

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I was in the mounties basic class at the age of 14. You can't do that anymore, but I know a few people from back in the day that did.

 

I signed up to climb Magic Mt. as an experience climb. I did get quite an experience. The leader of the trip got switched and we ended up with a fill in leader. We hiked to Cache Col without any problem. The next day the 12 of us headed for the route. We made it to the notch without a problem and then things slowed down since we were 4 rope teams of 3. The leader got about 2/3 of the way up the route and then came to a stop. I was on the last rope so we just sat there for hours (I am not making this up) I couldn't see him but apparently the leader got stuck at the 5.4 crux and couldn't get past it. He sat there without making any headway and even refused to let anybody else take over the lead. Eventually at about 6PM or so he decided that we had to rap since he couldn't make any forward progress.

 

We got back to the tents, packed up, and made it to Cascade Pass at about midnight. I ended up getting home at about 5AM on the next Monday.

 

The long and short of this is I think the mounties have some good things about them, but obviously they have some scary stuff too. I could tell you about a buddy of mine at about my age climbing Mt. Adams. I'd say your best bet is to make friends with people of about your skill level and go out and try and climb. If you can hook up with somebody with a lot of experience to take you up some routes then that's a good thing. Classes are a good place to learn, but try and think for yourself.

 

I graduated the basic course but then dropped out of the intermediate class a few years later. I haven't done anything with the mounties since I was 16, but in the mean time I've done quite a bit of climbing.

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Thanks Feck, I also was in a Mountaineering program when I was 16 based in Snoqualmie first summit was Mount Danial, and look forward to meeting up with some of the fine folks on this site, my sons 19 and 20 are climbing on there own now and don't drag dad along as much anymore. and yes your advice about choosing a group is appreciated.

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Don't worry, I've already reported this incident to the Slinging Judge Advocate General

 

scratch that, Spectra slung, $60

 

 

Make sure you file the proper MGRSQR with the Mazamas

 

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Damn paperwork! And they want receipts from the last 15 helens slogs. I'm getting audited this year, I know it. All because I bumped up a tier in the slog bracket last fall.

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Spencer....I think it is very possible to find good partners here...I've only tried it once, and found a phenomenal rope gun (thanks Blake!).

 

Hey what about me !! hehe j/k. By the way whos the unamed newb? send me a pm :grin:

 

Btw if your a male in your 40s you might score in the mounties with some hottie from microsoft.

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I have never been very good at planning my climbs months ahead of time

 

I would love to hear what others think.

 

I think you're going to find it hard to plan your trips months in advance in the PNW. Sure you can get a general idea of what you want to do, but committing to something more than a couple days in advance isn't a good idea. The mounties make you sign up long in advance of a trip.

 

Not really true. I've set up/gone on several quite successful climbs (glacier and rock) in 2 to 3 days before when a good weather window presented itself.

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Most of my knowledge is from the 70s so some things may be better. That doesn't take away from the fact that the Mounties have some issues they really need to work through.

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cobracommander -

 

you'll have to pass the Mountaineers evaluation exam before you are qualified to hold an opinion on the Mountaineers

 

 

You should probably have seen the issue from both sides to hold a qualified opinion.

 

While some (sounds like a good number by the level of bitching on here) people have had bad experiences running into large Mountie parties, to paint the entire club with the same brush is absurd. I would be willing to bet that most of the Mountaineers do 1/2 or better of their climbing with private parties formed from connections made through the club. There are also lots of leaders putting up respectable climbs in good style, they just don't post them here.

 

The Mountie's also end up being a catchall for the complaints about any other large group in the area. Heck, I had some Mountie friends who got stuck on the Tooth waiting for the WAC torope 12 people up the tooth. (I mean top rope, as in lead, set up anchor, bring person up, untie, throw rope down for next person, repeat, toprope).

 

You want to avoid groups of newbies? Then stay away from routes that are magnets for newbies :rolleyes:

 

 

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I was in the mounties basic class at the age of 14. You can't do that anymore, but I know a few people from back in the day that did.

 

I signed up to climb Magic Mt. as an experience climb. I did get quite an experience. The leader of the trip got switched and we ended up with a fill in leader. We hiked to Cache Col without any problem. The next day the 12 of us headed for the route. We made it to the notch without a problem and then things slowed down since we were 4 rope teams of 3. The leader got about 2/3 of the way up the route and then came to a stop. I was on the last rope so we just sat there for hours (I am not making this up) I couldn't see him but apparently the leader got stuck at the 5.4 crux and couldn't get past it. He sat there without making any headway and even refused to let anybody else take over the lead. Eventually at about 6PM or so he decided that we had to rap since he couldn't make any forward progress.

 

We got back to the tents, packed up, and made it to Cascade Pass at about midnight. I ended up getting home at about 5AM on the next Monday.

 

The long and short of this is I think the mounties have some good things about them, but obviously they have some scary stuff too. I could tell you about a buddy of mine at about my age climbing Mt. Adams. I'd say your best bet is to make friends with people of about your skill level and go out and try and climb. If you can hook up with somebody with a lot of experience to take you up some routes then that's a good thing. Classes are a good place to learn, but try and think for yourself.

 

I graduated the basic course but then dropped out of the intermediate class a few years later. I haven't done anything with the mounties since I was 16, but in the mean time I've done quite a bit of climbing.

 

And you can still take the class at 16 I think, you just need parents permission.

 

Also, scuttlebut has it that there are about to be some very significant changes in the Seattle Mountaineers Basic climbing course, away from the big group model, and towards a much smaller group model. With the ability to "test" out of things in which you are already competent. I'd speculate that the Intemediate course will got that direction in the near future as well.

 

 

 

 

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