Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber


      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  

[TR] North Cascades - Early Morning - Forbidden Traverse 7/27/2007

Recommended Posts

Trip: North Cascades - Early Morning - Forbidden Traverse


Date: 7/27/2007


Trip Report:

Greg Foweraker and I spent 4 days traversing between Marble Creek cirque and Boston Basin. Along the way, we linked climbs on Early Morning Spire, Eldorado Peak, Mount Torment, and Forbidden Peak.


On Friday, we hiked up Eldorado Creek, crossed Triad Col, and desended to the Marble Creek cirque.


Camp in Marble Creek cirque below Early Morning Spire and Dorado Needle.


The next day we climbed the SW Face of Early Morning Spire.


Greg leading the traverse pitch.


Weather rolled in Sunday morning, but the forecast was for dry and sunny weather to prevail, so we packed up and headed for the West Arete of Eldorado Peak. Cloud and fog surrounded us all day as we climbed.



5.7 is hard with a big pack!



Descending the East Ridge of Eldorado.


From Eldorado, we crossed the edge of the Inspiration Glacier and gained the high alpine ridge that leads eastward to Torment Col. We camped just short of the Col.


Hiking to Torment Col with Moraine Lake far below.


We finished our trip with the Torment - Forbidden traverse. Fog returned Monday morning as we pinballed our way around and up Torment basin trying to find the start of the South Ridge of Torment


Thar she blows.


After tagging Torment's summit, we began the traverse to Forbidden.


The first few pitches are distinctly alpine.


Our last night.


Tonight's special: Ramen Albacore boiled in snow water.


Tuesday morning we continued the traverse





After reaching the summit of Forbidden by the West Ridge, we descended that route back down to Boston Basin and hiked out to the car. Future parties may want to add the SW Buttress of Dorado Needle and the Nelson Route on Sharkfin Tower to round out the traverse.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

So, from Torment Col you descended to head up the South Ridge? Is the East Ridge of Torment that unappetizing? I've been curious about that as a start to the T-F traverse, probably because of the exciting time I wound up off route trying the S. Ridge start...


What a great way to spend 4 days in the Cascades. :tup:

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Beautiful.. a trip of this nature is definitely on my to-do-someday list. Thanks for the inspiration!

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Dan--- you're still da man!


15 years ago this guy taught me the three rules of alpine/multi-pitch climbing that still apply today:


1. Expect to fail

2. One pitch at a time

3. NEVER give up



Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the great pics and TR!

Was the SW of EMS dry? Never been there but Nelson states it's a late season climb because of the snow patch high on the face...


Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Dan, how long did you take on the Torment/Forbidden traverse? Suggested rack, helpful beta??


What did that access couloir look like to get onto the W. Ridge of Forbidden?


Thanks for the report-



Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

EMS was dry... I think the snow patch is a victim of global warming.


The T-F Traverse takes about 12 hours from the start of Torment to touching down in Boston Basin. I would not recommend the West Ridge Coulior on Forbidden for ascent or descent. It is a mess. The rib to the climber's left is your option. Probably a pitch or 2 of 5th class going up. With another rap station, it would be a great descent, despite the loose rock.


It's great to see all the traverses and link ups in the Cascades... as the saying goes, once you've climbed everything up and down, then you start going sideways.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this