Jump to content

[TR] North Cascades - Early Morning - Forbidden Traverse 7/27/2007


Dan_Cauthorn

Recommended Posts

Trip: North Cascades - Early Morning - Forbidden Traverse

 

Date: 7/27/2007

 

Trip Report:

Greg Foweraker and I spent 4 days traversing between Marble Creek cirque and Boston Basin. Along the way, we linked climbs on Early Morning Spire, Eldorado Peak, Mount Torment, and Forbidden Peak.

 

On Friday, we hiked up Eldorado Creek, crossed Triad Col, and desended to the Marble Creek cirque.

IMGP0027.JPG

Camp in Marble Creek cirque below Early Morning Spire and Dorado Needle.

 

The next day we climbed the SW Face of Early Morning Spire.

IMGP0037.JPG

Greg leading the traverse pitch.

 

Weather rolled in Sunday morning, but the forecast was for dry and sunny weather to prevail, so we packed up and headed for the West Arete of Eldorado Peak. Cloud and fog surrounded us all day as we climbed.

 

IMGP0065.JPG

5.7 is hard with a big pack!

 

IMGP00691.JPG

Descending the East Ridge of Eldorado.

 

From Eldorado, we crossed the edge of the Inspiration Glacier and gained the high alpine ridge that leads eastward to Torment Col. We camped just short of the Col.

IMGP0075.JPG

Hiking to Torment Col with Moraine Lake far below.

 

We finished our trip with the Torment - Forbidden traverse. Fog returned Monday morning as we pinballed our way around and up Torment basin trying to find the start of the South Ridge of Torment

IMGP0086.JPG

Thar she blows.

 

After tagging Torment's summit, we began the traverse to Forbidden.

IMGP0093.JPG

The first few pitches are distinctly alpine.

 

Our last night.

IMGP0098.JPG

Tonight's special: Ramen Albacore boiled in snow water.

 

Tuesday morning we continued the traverse

IMGP0109.JPG

 

IMGP0115.JPG

 

After reaching the summit of Forbidden by the West Ridge, we descended that route back down to Boston Basin and hiked out to the car. Future parties may want to add the SW Buttress of Dorado Needle and the Nelson Route on Sharkfin Tower to round out the traverse.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 14
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

So, from Torment Col you descended to head up the South Ridge? Is the East Ridge of Torment that unappetizing? I've been curious about that as a start to the T-F traverse, probably because of the exciting time I wound up off route trying the S. Ridge start...

 

What a great way to spend 4 days in the Cascades. :tup:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

EMS was dry... I think the snow patch is a victim of global warming.

 

The T-F Traverse takes about 12 hours from the start of Torment to touching down in Boston Basin. I would not recommend the West Ridge Coulior on Forbidden for ascent or descent. It is a mess. The rib to the climber's left is your option. Probably a pitch or 2 of 5th class going up. With another rap station, it would be a great descent, despite the loose rock.

 

It's great to see all the traverses and link ups in the Cascades... as the saying goes, once you've climbed everything up and down, then you start going sideways.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




×
×
  • Create New...