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[TR] Olympic Range - Mt Olympus - Blue Glacier 7/26/2007


everyfrog

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Trip: Olympic Range - Mt Olympus - Blue Glacier

 

Date: 7/26/2007

 

Trip Report:

Four of us started from the trailhead at Hoh Ranger Station at 11:30 a.m. Thursday and hiked 15 miles to Martin Creek Camp. Heard screaming from a camp next door and soon realized a momma bear and her cub were just up the hill from us. They decided we weren't worthy of anything and left us alone the rest of the night.

 

Up early Friday morning and left for Glacier Meadows and made the approach to Blue Glacier. The view from the ridge was breathtaking, with the ice fall and Blue Glacier. We hiked down to the glacier, roped up, slathered on 50 spf and strode across the glacier with ease. Our first time doing glacier travel after taking a mountaineering class and the experience was thrilling! The hike up from the glacier to Snow Dome took a little longer than expected but was pretty easy - crossed both snow and rock bands. On the dome, we found the large rock band by Panic Peak and the IGY huts to shelter our tents from the wind. We had great weather both Thursday and Friday, but saw clouds start to roll in below us Friday evening and got a little concerned, hoping they wouldn't rise. But it was cool how the clouds stayed below us and we got the view of a sea of peaks in the evening. Also, we were all just excited about sleeping on the dome.

 

Not much sleep that night as the winds picked up, but we were up at 6 a.m. for the ascent. Skies partly cloudy but nothing too concerning. The sunrise was amazing and the shadows cast across the snow and peaks were lovely. We hiked through Crystal Pass, around the false summit and next thing i knew, we were at the summit block! Whoo! One of our guys set pro for the 5.4 route off the snow ramp and the rest of us had a great time climbing up to the top. No 360-degree views as clouds and winds were picking up but it was exhilarating all the same. A few pictures, a note made in the box and we rapped down and headed out as a whiteout and mist started to sock us in.

 

Packed up camp, glissaded down the dome to the rock bands, such as CalTech Rock, and back on the glacier. A little slushy back across the glacier (it was about 3 p.m. when we hit it) and then down to 13 mile camp for the night. Mosquitoes were horrendous and it started to rain. Sunday morning - on the trail by 7:20 a.m. and back to the car by 12:45 p.m.

 

It seemed like the mountain was packed with climbers too - we came across groups of 8-10, as well as soloists. Even on Sunday, we saw about 20 people hiking in for the climb. Also, we came across a group of five Marines on Saturday who were doing it in 24 hours - noon to noon. Anyone ever hear about what happened to them? We concerned about their safety.

 

 

Gear Notes:

some pro up to 2-inches, crampons, axes, 10.5 dry rope, tennis shoes and mountaineering boots.

 

Approach Notes:

painful in and painful out - but incredible climb!

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