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[TR] Colchuck Balanced Rock - West Face 7/30/2007


Matt_Alford

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Trip: Colchuck Balanced Rock - West Face

 

Date: 7/30/2007

 

Trip Report:

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Dumb and Dumber

 

In our triumphant reunion JJ Sill and I climbed the West Face of Colchuck Balanced Rock on the 29th in 15 hours car-to-to. A spectacular route in an beautiful setting; an absolute classic. I will definitely be back to free this route in the next couple years.

We shared the route with Andrew and Jesse from Seattle who freed the entire route onsight! Nice job guys!

 

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The route climbs the central part of the face up the the large triangle roof, traverses left and then up.

 

 

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JJ following pitch 4

 

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JJ leading 11a corner, best pitch on the route

 

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Me following the corner

 

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JJ Leading the roof traverse

 

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Splitter 5.9 hands to the A1 (12-) roof moves

 

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Getting cozy with the squeeze chimney exit pitch

 

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WTF!?!?!?!?!?!?!

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I'd recommend taking your hiking shoes up the route with you, you could walk down in your rock shoes, but it would kinda suck. We didn't take a pack and just clipped our shit to our harnesses. Only on the last pitch does anything hanging on your harness get in the way. At that point I just hung my shoes/water/helmet from my belay loop on a sling.

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