Double Rope Length

[AJ]

For those who use double rope systems, what length of rope do you find to work best for you? I'm considering picking up a pair of doubles but I'm having trouble deciding if I really need 60m or if 50m doubles will work.

 

In my situation I will primarily use this setup for alpine rock and ice routes. I'd also like to use a single strand for some typical Cascade volcano/glacier routes. I've rarely ever stretched my 10.5mm x 60m rope. When I've taken my 10.5mm x 50m rope (it doesn't get used a lot now) I don't recall having it come up short much.

[Dru]

The 2x60m definitely offers more flexibility than the 2x50m for alpine rock especially when doing first ascents, where you must choose to use the ledge at 35m or press on to the one at 58m... or travelling on easy terrain where you can stop to belay almost anywhere as you will routinely run out the extra 10m if you got it.

[mattp]

I've climbed on a pair of 50 meter x 9mm ropes for years and I have very rarely found them to come up short. Now that 60 meter is becoming the standard rope length, I would expect to encounter rock climbs with anchors at 60 meter invervals, but for more general mountaineering and for the vast majority of climbs, 50 meter ropes are fine and the coil is just a little more manageble. However, you may have difficulty finding 50 meter ropes unless you special order them.

[Dru]

mattp's point about pitch length applies mostly to routes that have fixed belays set. which is not many of the alpine routes around here anyways. more applicable to multipitch cragging routes.

 

much easier to link pitches with 60s than with 50s. more rope drag too though.

 

if you wanna see the difference go cimbing for a week in the alpine with 1 50 and 1 60 and see how many times you would have used the extra 10m but cant because one of your ropes is too short.

 

belays are down time. take time to set up and beak down. lets say you climb a 600m route of easy rock climbing where you can belay almost everywhere. with the 60s you climb that route in 10-11 pitches instead of 12-13 with 50s. SO you potentially save up to 3 belays which could equate to climbing the route up to half an hour or more faster.

[Rodchester]

I would go with the 9mm x 60m. I use 50 meters presntly and would like to have the 60s. The extra rope is great and not much extra weight....especially on ice. Really on any alpine route it is great to have the extra rope. And rapping?...it rocks. You can put two shorter pitches together into one. etc. etc.

 

As far as avalability of 9 mm x 50m ropes goes...mattp seems to think you may have a problem finding them....

 

"However, you may have difficulty finding 50 meter ropes unless you special order them"

 

I see them all over. I seriously doubt they will be harder to find...could be wrong but I doubt it.

 

Good luck

[Dru]

if you are concerned about weight, an 8mm x60 is way lighter than a 9mmx50....

[Cpt.Caveman]

Ice Climbing I think 2X60 is the way. Cragging I like 10X60. Volcano or other slog with not much rock or technicalities I use 1X50.

[Gerg]

Cavey,

 

You really think a 1x50 is going to do much good for you? I've seen you pounding beers at the pub club

g

 

[ 06-06-2002, 06:51 PM: Message edited by: Gerg ]

[AJ]

Thanks for all the advice. It sounds like there is general consensus (as much as possible on cc.com) that 2x60m is the better way to go. Time to start shopping.

[jhamaker]

Go 50 meters for alpine

 

I agree w/ those above. Most alpine routes were put up w/ 40 or 45 m ropes, so 60 m makes no sence since w/ a 60 you will encounter MORE wieght, rope drag, and dificulty of communication.

 

A double rope system, while usuasly safer than a single rope system is not necessarily faster because of rope management issues. The thinner the strands, the more they like to tangle.

2x60 m ropes is the heaviest of all systems.

 

60 m ok for long steep snow/ice if you carry enough pro.