David Yount Posted July 26, 2007 Share Posted July 26, 2007 July 1, 2007 Infinite Bliss on Mt Garfield 5.10 IV 23 pitches 4:08am at car, begin hike 4:31am at base of climb 5:00am begin climb 10:09am summit 10:25am begin rappel 1:08pm end of rappel, base of climb 1:25pm begin hike down 1:39pm back at car 23 min hike up 29 min transition at base of climb 5:09 hour climb 16 min transition at summit 2:43 hour rappel 17 min transition at base of climb 14 min hike down 9:31 hour car to car We pitched it out, no simulclimbing. 12 quickdraws, 3 full length runners and 3 double length runners. Each had 6 pints of water and 7 powers bars; I left over 3 pints of water and 3 power bars. It was nice to climb in the shade, the sun didn’t find us until pitch 22. The hike began with headlamps, but soon they were not necessary. There were many many trees blown down. A party of 2 arrived when we were on pitch 9? they had a sweet pair of lines, bright orange and bright yellow. A party of 3 arrived a bit later; they 3rd classed the first 3 or 4 pitches, almost catching the second party. A fourth party arrived; they (wisely) decided to abandon after viewing all the action up route. A fifth party arrived, not sure if they ascended partway or abandoned immediately? Second party navigated pitch 15 and 16 by going directly from bottom of 15 to top of 17, more or less straight line between the two points. Third party (of three) navigated straight up from bottom of 15 and ended in the small trees far left from the pitch 17 anchor bolts. I know many groups have ended far right of pitch 17 anchors in the large trees, but never heard about parties arriving far left of pitch 17 anchors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug_Hutchinson Posted July 26, 2007 Share Posted July 26, 2007 This post has been up for 50 minutes and no one (of about six select cc.com climbers) has broke into the passion play melodrama about how bad this route is? Shame, shame - some of you are slipping. Those were my beautiful new twin ropes. First pair that I have owned where there is no confusion about which color is which. Simulrapping on 7.7mms is pretty slick - like way fast. I cant believe you did it that fast with no simul climbing. Nice work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug_Hutchinson Posted July 26, 2007 Share Posted July 26, 2007 Oh yeah, we simuled the first 6 pitches, the party of three 3rd classed the first five by staying way right of the route, almost in the woods. This drops the grade down considerably - like low 5th but means you can climb five pitches in under 10 minutes. Even staying 10-20 feet either side of the bolts seemed way easier since the most featureless part of the friction slabs were bolted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted July 26, 2007 Share Posted July 26, 2007 How did you pitch our 23 pitches in 5 hours? That is hard to believe. We arrived at the base of pitch 19 in 5 pitches in about 2.5 hours. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jens Posted July 26, 2007 Share Posted July 26, 2007 This post has been up for 50 minutes and no one (of about six select cc.com climbers) has broke into the passion play melodrama about how bad this route is? Shame, shame - some of you are slipping. Don't tempt me. ------ To break the speed record of 43 minutes to climb the route, I would guess one would have to do the entire route in one pitch? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted July 26, 2007 Share Posted July 26, 2007 July 1, 2007 Infinite Bliss on Mt Garfield 5.10 IV 23 pitches 4:08am at car, begin hike 4:31am at base of climb 5:00am begin climb 10:09am summit 10:25am begin rappel 1:08pm end of rappel, base of climb 1:25pm begin hike down 1:39pm back at car 23 min hike up 29 min transition at base of climb 5:09 hour climb 16 min transition at summit 2:43 hour rappel 17 min transition at base of climb 14 min hike down 9:31 hour car to car We pitched it out, no simulclimbing. 12 quickdraws, 3 full length runners and 3 double length runners. Each had 6 pints of water and 7 powers bars; I left over 3 pints of water and 3 power bars. It was nice to climb in the shade, the sun didn’t find us until pitch 22. The hike began with headlamps, but soon they were not necessary. There were many many trees blown down. A party of 2 arrived when we were on pitch 9? they had a sweet pair of lines, bright orange and bright yellow. A party of 3 arrived a bit later; they 3rd classed the first 3 or 4 pitches, almost catching the second party. A fourth party arrived; they (wisely) decided to abandon after viewing all the action up route. A fifth party arrived, not sure if they ascended partway or abandoned immediately? Second party navigated pitch 15 and 16 by going directly from bottom of 15 to top of 17, more or less straight line between the two points. Third party (of three) navigated straight up from bottom of 15 and ended in the small trees far left from the pitch 17 anchor bolts. I know many groups have ended far right of pitch 17 anchors in the large trees, but never heard about parties arriving far left of pitch 17 anchors. a speed ascent TR of IB? hate to break it to you but 9:31 is really good but speed might be a little overused at this point. no offense bro. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
faster_than_you Posted July 27, 2007 Share Posted July 27, 2007 I want to see third party timers. Otherwise, "Idea Guy" is nothing but a Nodder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Yount Posted July 28, 2007 Author Share Posted July 28, 2007 I want to see third party timers. Otherwise, "Idea Guy" is nothing but a Nodder. Yes! I want to see third party timers as well!! Would you be available?? Actually, kidding. We just wanted to share our outing, provide specifics, in case others have been thinking of a similar adventure or maybe find it inspiring....... or maybe swap stories.... I'm happy to answer any specific questions regarding any part of our day..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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