sampdx1 Posted July 23, 2007 Share Posted July 23, 2007 Does anyone know the condition of the couloir on the West Ridge of Forbidden right now? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCash Posted July 23, 2007 Share Posted July 23, 2007 According to a ranger a week ago, it was unpassable due to huge moat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fenderfour Posted July 23, 2007 Share Posted July 23, 2007 Some friends were up there last week and were able to climb the rock out of the moat after the ranger told them it was unpassable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goatboy Posted July 23, 2007 Share Posted July 23, 2007 It's always passable via 4th class rock to climber's left. Â Rangers often say things are impassable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sampdx1 Posted July 24, 2007 Author Share Posted July 24, 2007 Cool - thanks for the info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maestro Posted July 25, 2007 Share Posted July 25, 2007 Has anyone actually climbed the rock variation that goatboy alluded to? How many pitches? What pro does it take? More time-consuming than struggling with the moat? I think I read somewhere that it goes at 5.6. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pred Posted July 26, 2007 Share Posted July 26, 2007 Pretty much follows rap route and it's mostly 4th to low 5th class.It's about 4 pitches long and more or less standard pro(small to mid size) We climbed it as a party of 3 as one long simulclimb (all the way to the notch).Good thing is that you check the raps on the way up...Have fun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goatboy Posted July 26, 2007 Share Posted July 26, 2007 Climbing that snowy/icy couloir gives the route so much variety and alpine character. Once that thing melts out, I would recommend climbing the E Ridge instead, and returning via the East Ledges....but the West Ridge sure is fantastic... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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