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[TR] Peru- Cordillera Blanca- Tocllaraju - West Face Direct 7/16/2007

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Trip: Peru- Cordillera Blanca- Tocllaraju - West Face Direct

 

Date: 7/16/2007

 

Trip Report:

jesse newman, craig gyselinck, and i hiked up the ishinca valley to basecamp on sunday after acclimatizing on vallunaraju 5686meters and an attempt on alpamayo 5947meters cutshort by a stomach virus. on monday craig and i left basecamp at 330pm. jesse stayed behind still feeling sick from alpamayo.craig and i reached the base of the face at about 8pm and began simulsoloing.we roped up for the 100meters to the ridge(80 degree ice)and reached the summit about 1am. the descent took 3 30meter rappels, some downclimbing, and a lot of tired walking and we made it back to basecamp around 7am. the route was spectacular but unfortunately the views were missed by climbing through the night.

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West Face of Tocllaraju- route goes up center of face

 

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the ishinca valley on the hike in

 

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base camp

 

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jesse and a burro

 

Gear Notes:

3 screws

4 pickets

1 60m rope

 

Approach Notes:

burros to carry the gear

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Sweet pics! nice work. Man I wish I could have gone with you guys. Can't wait to hear all the stories from Jesse when he gets back!

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So...did you go around to the R or L of the upper summit area to gain the summit ridge? I take it you took the L side of the bergshrund?

 

I've looked at that face many times; spectacular!

 

Nice work, guys!

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Nice job, gang. Wish my stomach would've been sorted (as well as the weather) on our attempt. Pretty line; how was the snow up top on the ridge?

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Last night I found my self half hovering over the tolit and my other half over the sink. Unsure of what might insue, I wanted to be ready for anything. I ended up using both simultaneously. A quick glance out the bathroom door to see what all the gargling was about and I could see my girlfriends head buried in a plastic bag. I crawled back into bed chuckling like an insane person. Are we having fun yet, I asked. She didn´t respond.

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yeah getting sick definately sucks. It limited our climbing while we were down there for sure. My friend jesse even had to get a iv and spend two nights in the hospital when he got ecoli

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Nice pictures. How long were you down there for?

 

I'm not sure what those beasts are, but something down there made me the sickest I've ever been. Hallucinating fevers are fun!

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When we were there a few years ago I did the same itinerary but in reverse. We went up Ishinka Vally first and climbed all the peaks in that range, then moved over to Alpamayo. Kept everyone healthy and acclimatized.

 

After those peaks I ran the Inca trail in a day to see the Machu Pichu ruins. Fabulous trip. Even met a hot British gal! (long crazy story)

 

:yoda:

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