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powderhound

[TR] Tuolumne Meadows - Hoodwink & Inverted Staircase 7/6/2007

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Trip: Tuolumne Meadows - Hoodwink & Inverted Staircase

 

Date: 7/6/2007

 

Trip Report:

So my first trip to Yosemite didn't include any climbing their. Instead I ended up climbing in the meadows to get away from the heat and people. We started with Hoodwink a 6 pitch 5.10a put up by Jim Birdwell. I highly recommend this route. We did the first two pitchs in one and then broke the arch in one and the out the rook another. I would recommend this due to massive rope drag. The roof felt like I was climbing in the gunks in steepness and rating. So here are some pics.

 

 

The route follows the crack on the left side of the arch and exits the arch 1/3 of the way through it.

Hoodwinkrouteneil.JPG

 

Pitch 1&2

HWbryan1stpitch.JPG

Pitch 3

BRyan2nd_pitchHW.JPG

 

Looking out the Roof

HWlooking_out_roof.JPG

 

Working my way out

HWroof.JPG

 

Ended the day with a classic sport climb "Orange Plasma"

 

orangeplasma.JPG

 

Day two I was looking for some real Alpine training so i decided to climb Fairview Dome, the largest in the meadows. This climb was a lot less straightforward and tested our ability to continue to move quickly.

 

fairview1.JPG

 

 

 

Inverted Staricase (the R pitch made my stomach jump and the last pitch of so called 5.8 is a bunch of crap.)

 

The Inverted Staricase Pitch 5

invertedstaricase.JPG

 

View of the area from the top

meadows.JPG

 

Cheers,

 

P.S. Additional Photo stoke from other summer trips:

 

Paradise Forks, AZ : One fo the coolest trad areas I have been too, kinda magical.

Paradiseforks.JPG

 

Stretch.JPG

 

James Cannyon, AZ, Flagstaff area:

splits.JPG

Keyhole.JPG

 

A little Swim for my buddy Pat

Patswimnarrow.JPG

Log Slide

LOG.JPG

Cliff Jump

Jump.JPG

 

Gear Notes:

Doubles on 1-3 BD and good set of nuts, 8 or so runners

 

Approach Notes:

All close less then 15 minutes off the road

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Nice pics.

Inverted staircase brings back great memories. Was there water running out of one of the roofs on the staircase pitch? I couldn't step over it and slipped and whipped trying to move past. The #2 cam was in the water, but thankfully it held.

I'll have to put Hoodwink on the list.

 

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Nice pics.

Inverted staircase brings back great memories. Was there water running out of one of the roofs on the staircase pitch? I couldn't step over it and slipped and whipped trying to move past. The #2 cam was in the water, but thankfully it held.

I'll have to put Hoodwink on the list.

 

About 3/4's of the staircase was wet and my buddy aided those sections to keep on pace.

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Stretch.JPG

 

Stoke stoke stoke! Sweet stuff Bryan.

 

BTW, I trundled something that looked just like that pic there. Slightly smaller. It didn't topple straight out like I anticipated, and almost took out my brand new 70M rope which was on the ground at the next route over.

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"About 3/4's of the staircase was wet and my buddy aided those sections to keep on pace.".

 

Bummer. That was one of my most favorite pitches anywhere. I hope to get back some day. The face moves below were the technical crux, I believe. Straight up past the bolt felt harder than 10b, but 8-10ft right it felt about 10a.

 

We also had a mini-epic on the last pitch. I climbed a ramp left and then back right over a manzanita bush. I flipped the rope into the bush so it would run straighter. Then there was a steep face with a tv-size block balanced on it right over my belayer down below. I had two options: 1- an unprotected traverse right toward something that looked like a crack, or 2 - a few unprotected boulder moves up to a crack above. I chose the latter, which involved balancing carefully on the block, doing some 5.8+ moves up the face, and then gaining the crack. Unfortunately, the crack soon ran out. I then had to climb up and right over a smooth face (5.9+) that was pure friction (no holds for 20 feet) and no pro. Ropedrag was a bitch and I knew a fall might send me all the way to the manzanita bush some 50feet below. Somehow I made it over to another crack and set up an anchor. My partner had to climb through the manzanita bush because of where I had flipped the rope. He got stabbed in the shin (those things are evil) and his rock shoe was pretty much full of blood when he got up to me.

 

We topped out and did the endless knob friction scamper on the descent.

 

Twas a grand adventure for a 24 yr old leader - that was 15 years ago, but I still remember it well.

 

thanks for bringing that back.

 

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Sounds like an awesome run, Bryan! Sorry I didn't get that Tuolumne beta your way in time :tdown: - but you obviously sussed it out just fine... :tup:

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