Lead belay clinic PDX 7/19 Thursday evening 6pm

[billcoe]

Got this email from Climbaxe and thought it was worth posting here.

 

 

 

"Hello Climb Max Friends and Family,

 

 

 

Following the success of our last Climb Max clinic on Sport Climbing, and by popular demand, we would like to announce our next free clinic: Lead Belay. The clinic will be held here at the shop on Thursday, July 19th, at 6pm. After the clinic we will be open late and have a special 15% discount for participants on gear pertaining to the clinic.

 

 

 

This clinic will be great for those looking to learn or practice the nuances of lead belaying, including correct use of both friction and "locking assisted belay devices" , correct stance, rope angle, elongation, as well as things to be aware of while anticipating a lead fall (from the belay end).

 

 

 

Participants should already be comfortable with top-rope belay technique, and should bring with them their belay piece of choice. Participants are also encouraged to bring along their own harnesses and any other equipment they might use, but we will also have back-up equipment just in case. Since there was such a great turnout last time, please RSVP to the email if you plan on attending so we can be prepared to accommodate everyone who comes. Please feel free to contact us with any questions.

 

 

 

Thanks to all of you who showed up last time, and we look forward to seeing more of you this coming week!

 

 

 

Cheers,

 

 

 

-Max : )

 

 

 

Climb Max Mountaineering

 

928 NE 28th Ave.

 

Portland, OR 97232

 

503.797.1991

 

info@climbmaxmountaineering.com"

 

Edited to change word "auto-locking belay devices" to "locking assisted belay devices"

________________________________________

Edited July 12, 2007 by billcoe

[billcoe]

Wording changed due to Mfg request on RC.com. Thought it was valid and we should all consider it.

 

[RANT]

Please, please, please, we're (the manufacturers) trying really hard to eliminate the use of the term "auto-locking belay devices". As far as we're concerned there is no such thing. Every belay device on the market, including the locking assist devices like our Cinch, require expert instruction, practice and attention on the belayer's part.

 

Just think of what the word, automatic, implies: that you don't need to learn anything, that you don't have to pay attention, that it's easy for beginners to use. In no case it that true of any of the belay devices we make, and I don't think it applies to any others.

 

Additionaly, the locking assist devices each have there own specific operating techniques. Just because you know how to use a Grigri does not in any way make you skilled in using a Cinch or a SUM. Please honor these differences and don't just hand over one of these devices to a belayer without giving them the specific instructions in how to use it. At best, they'll hate the device, At worst, they'll have an accident and hurt somebody.

 

Please stress the importance of having a well-practiced, skilled and attentitive belayer at all times and take the word automatic out of the lexicon.

 

[/RANT]

 

Thanks and climb safe,

Mal