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Mike_Buker

Yates Adjustable Aider

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While in Yosemite a few weeks back, not climbing El Cap, I ran into a couple that was climbing the route next to me. She was anchored into the wall with three pieces equalized and clipped to a Yates adjustable aider, girth-hitched to her harness. This set-up allowed her to instantly adjust the distance between herself and the anchor, while remaining attached. I've seen the same done with 6mil. cordage, but that required a convoluted Purcell knot. Is this an acceptable anchor?

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quote:

She was anchored into the wall with three pieces equalized and clipped to a Yates adjustable aider, girth-hitched to her harness.

[Wazzup]

 

The Yates adjustable daisies are rated to only 2000lbs. Personally, I would want something more bombproof to keep me from splattering into the deck. Daisies are fine for holding body weight. I use a daisy chain as a backup anchor when setting up my main anchor system, but I would NEVER use a single daisy as my main anchor.

 

Check out John Long's book, "Climbing Anchors" and "More Climbing Anchors" for some good examples of belay anchor systems.

 

[ 04-18-2002, 07:36 PM: Message edited by: bellemontagne ]

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quote:

Originally posted by Mike Buker:

While in Yosemite a few weeks back, not climbing El Cap, I ran into a couple that was climbing the route next to me. She was anchored into the wall with three pieces equalized and clipped to a Yates adjustable aider, girth-hitched to her harness. This set-up allowed her to instantly adjust the distance between herself and the anchor, while remaining attached. I've seen the same done with 6mil. cordage, but that required a convoluted Purcell knot. Is this an acceptable anchor?

Aider or daisy? I have some metolius adjustable daisies as well as aiders. Love the daisies, hate the aiders for aid. They work great for jugging though.

 

I don't have a problem using my daisies as attachment points to the anchor. I usually clove hitch the rope from my tie-in to the anchor as well. I'd never just use a single attachment point.

 

Also kong makes adjustable daisies using 6mil cord (or is it 7mm?). Works just dandy.

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F.Y.I: The Metolius easy daisies are only rated to 300lbs and specifically say they are for body weight only. Mountain Tools and Yates easy daisies are both rated to 2000lbs.

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Thanks for the heads up belle. I wrote Metolius and got the word. Indeed, they "conservatively" rate their adjustable daisies at 300lbs. But are actually much stronger. Yeah, I am gonna test that on my next lead.

 

Thanks again.

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