Mike_Buker Posted April 18, 2002 Share Posted April 18, 2002 While in Yosemite a few weeks back, not climbing El Cap, I ran into a couple that was climbing the route next to me. She was anchored into the wall with three pieces equalized and clipped to a Yates adjustable aider, girth-hitched to her harness. This set-up allowed her to instantly adjust the distance between herself and the anchor, while remaining attached. I've seen the same done with 6mil. cordage, but that required a convoluted Purcell knot. Is this an acceptable anchor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bellemontagne Posted April 19, 2002 Share Posted April 19, 2002 quote: She was anchored into the wall with three pieces equalized and clipped to a Yates adjustable aider, girth-hitched to her harness. The Yates adjustable daisies are rated to only 2000lbs. Personally, I would want something more bombproof to keep me from splattering into the deck. Daisies are fine for holding body weight. I use a daisy chain as a backup anchor when setting up my main anchor system, but I would NEVER use a single daisy as my main anchor. Check out John Long's book, "Climbing Anchors" and "More Climbing Anchors" for some good examples of belay anchor systems. [ 04-18-2002, 07:36 PM: Message edited by: bellemontagne ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbw1966 Posted April 19, 2002 Share Posted April 19, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Mike Buker: While in Yosemite a few weeks back, not climbing El Cap, I ran into a couple that was climbing the route next to me. She was anchored into the wall with three pieces equalized and clipped to a Yates adjustable aider, girth-hitched to her harness. This set-up allowed her to instantly adjust the distance between herself and the anchor, while remaining attached. I've seen the same done with 6mil. cordage, but that required a convoluted Purcell knot. Is this an acceptable anchor? Aider or daisy? I have some metolius adjustable daisies as well as aiders. Love the daisies, hate the aiders for aid. They work great for jugging though. I don't have a problem using my daisies as attachment points to the anchor. I usually clove hitch the rope from my tie-in to the anchor as well. I'd never just use a single attachment point. Also kong makes adjustable daisies using 6mil cord (or is it 7mm?). Works just dandy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bellemontagne Posted April 20, 2002 Share Posted April 20, 2002 F.Y.I: The Metolius easy daisies are only rated to 300lbs and specifically say they are for body weight only. Mountain Tools and Yates easy daisies are both rated to 2000lbs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbw1966 Posted April 23, 2002 Share Posted April 23, 2002 Thanks for the heads up belle. I wrote Metolius and got the word. Indeed, they "conservatively" rate their adjustable daisies at 300lbs. But are actually much stronger. Yeah, I am gonna test that on my next lead. Thanks again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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