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New X38 crag above Deception


Rad

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The Shakespeare Wall:

 

Four good climbs in a semi-alpine setting close to the Deception area of Exit 38 provide a nice respite from the crowds below.

 

We hope you enjoy these climbs. Please help keep the area clean.

 

Routes are listed from left to right (pictures below):

 

Macbeth. 5.10a. ***

23m. 8 bolts.

Start at the left end of the obvious slab.

Gain the slab, step across to the upper face at the third bolt, and continue to the top.

This route has high quality moves from the opening mantle all the way to the chains. Avoid the somewhat loose band below the headwall by going high on the slab and stepping across.

FA: 6/06 Rad Roberts, Alex Krawarik, Scott Anderson.

 

As You Like It. 5.9. **

18 meters. 7 bolts.

Start at the toe of the buttress 50 feet right of Macbeth.

The upper crux has many solutions. All are photogenic.

Bring long runners and stay left to avoid loose rock at mid-height.

FA: 6/06 Alex Krawarik, Scott Anderson, Rad Roberts.

 

Midsummer Nights Dream. 5.10b. ***

20 meters. 7 bolts.

Start 30 feet right of As You Like It. Follow the rock band under and around a large roof. Fun, sustained moves will get the blood flowing.

FA: 6/06 Rad Roberts, Alex Krawarik, Scott Anderson.

 

Comedy of Errors. 5.10b. **

20 meters. 4 bolts.

Start on Midsummer, climb over the roof at the chain, and enjoy the crack and face to the Midsummer anchor. If you don’t find the hidden hold you may be in for a Comedy of Errors. Lower to the ground from the anchor and then follow to clean.

FA: 6/06 Scott Anderson, Rad Roberts, Alex Krawarik.

 

Approach:

Follow directions to the Deception area of X38. Take the trail that starts just past Side Dish (just before a fence), pass Late For Dinner and Just Dessert, and continue uphill for another 7 minutes. From the 6th switchback you can see an unclimbed wall above a talus gully. Keep going for one long switchback and one short one. Split off right at the 8th switchback at a small cairn. You cannot see the Shakespeare wall from this point. If you come out on a ridge overlooking the Hall Creek canyon you have gone too far. After departing the main trail, follow a gradually rising, traversing trail, walk atop a huge fallen log, pass the end of another giant log, then ascend 100 feet to the base of the Shakespeare wall. Macbeth will be the first climb you see.

 

Despite extensive cleaning, you may encounter some loose rock. Caveat emptor.

 

If you have any questions or feedback please contact us.

 

Macbeth - Dashes indicate the slab not visible from this angle.

use_Macbeth_topo_copy.jpg

 

 

As You Like It

use_As_You_Like_It_topo.JPG

 

Blue = Midsummer Nights Dream

Red = Comedy of Errors

use_Midsummer_comedy_topo_copy.jpg

 

Copyright 2007. All rights reserved.

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Thanks for the encouragement and thanks to all of you who served as guinea pigs in the process! :pagetop:

 

I have a friend that knows of some would be routes in the area now that you are on a roll, let me know if you want a hook up.

 

We have another crag in the works but are always looking for more opportunities. Why don't you or your friend send me a pm. :wave:

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