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Gear at Broughton


at_climber

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Unfortunately I had a little accident and decked on Slapfest out at Broughton this morning; nothing broken but I'll definitely be really sore for a while. I had to leave my gear on the route, which included a BD stopper and some quickdraws/biners. If anyone happens to clean this gear and feels generous, I would of course be grateful to see it again. My name is Adam and I work at the Oregon Mountain Community in Portland, the number there is 503-227-1038. Thanks and be safe!

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Luckily, I walked away with just a lot of bruises and some cracked ribs. I'm feeling pretty fortunate considering I cratered from about 15 feet up onto a pillar that the climbing starts off of. Slapfest is on the left end of Hanging Gardens Wall just right of Loose Block Overhang. It's the bolted arete and face that starts off a pillar 20ft up or so. Great climb, it just has one of the diciest clips I've ever had to do, and blowing it is not an option as I found out yesterday. Should be safe if done with double ropes, which is my plan for when I get on it again. Thanks.

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Olson's guide gives it 12b, which seemed about right to me. I lead it the other day without incident, but took a fall higher on the route after the scary clip. I knew I'd have it in the bag next try so I decided to finish it this morning but my foot popped unexpectedly right as I was clipping and that was that. I also doubt the gear is still there, but I figured I'd post this just in case. If I don't ever see it again, that's fine because I'm very lucky to have limped away with no serious injuries :)

Edited by at_climber
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That sucks, Adam! Personally, I would stick-clip a sport route to Kingdom Come rather than risk decking, but I'm glad to hear you're alright. July is kinda sketchy for tech-y, basalt slappin'/smearin', ya know?! I'm sure you'll get your send. After you're healed I'll give you a tour of the other Portland crags if you're game. Oh- this is Phillip (I just met you last week in the shop- my buddy bought that last rap ring).

 

Heal Up! and take care,

 

phillip

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That sucks, Adam! Personally, I would stick-clip a sport route to Kingdom Come rather than risk decking, but I'm glad to hear you're alright. July is kinda sketchy for tech-y, basalt slappin'/smearin', ya know?! I'm sure you'll get your send. After you're healed I'll give you a tour of the other Portland crags if you're game. Oh- this is Phillip (I just met you last week in the shop- my buddy bought that last rap ring).

 

Heal Up! and take care,

 

phillip

 

i'm surprised you don't find stick clipping embarrassing.

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That sucks, Adam! Personally, I would stick-clip a sport route to Kingdom Come rather than risk decking, but I'm glad to hear you're alright. July is kinda sketchy for tech-y, basalt slappin'/smearin', ya know?! I'm sure you'll get your send. After you're healed I'll give you a tour of the other Portland crags if you're game. Oh- this is Phillip (I just met you last week in the shop- my buddy bought that last rap ring).

 

Heal Up! and take care,

 

phillip

 

i'm surprised you don't find stick clipping embarrassing.

not if it doubles as a 6-foot double-barrel bong, eh?

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The route is actually bolted as well as possible I think. There's just no way to let go and clip for most of it, you're just pinching and laybacking the arete with very, very small feet. I agree with Phil on this, I'm not really into risking bodily injury on a sport route. I guess I didn't think that I would deck if I blew the clip, just come really close. On this particular route, you would be stick clipping from the pillar, so the clip is thirty feet off the ground. I guess I just had to decide whether to simply toprope the route, which is fine, or figure out a way to lead it that was acceptably safe. Obviously my judgement on the safety turned out to be incorrect, but I still think this is a potentially safe lead if done with double ropes.

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I'd be embarrassed to break my ankle and not climb because I had some weird, illogical aversion to stick-clipping a high bolt on a sport route.

 

 

i used to stick clip the anchor inthe middle of FFS so didn't have worry about fishing in the gear on the crux and risking a grounder.

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I'd be embarrassed to break my ankle and not climb because I had some weird, illogical aversion to stick-clipping a high bolt on a sport route.

 

 

i used to stick clip the anchor inthe middle of FFS so didn't have worry about fishing in the gear on the crux and risking a grounder.

 

You funny man.....

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Huh? That gear is bomber.

 

 

If you've got something to say, then let's hear it.

 

never said it wasn't.

 

i just that i find stick clips to be something that takes the danger out of climbing, kinda like the anchor in the middle of FFS.

 

neither one of them bothers me.

 

 

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anchors also take the danger out of climbing. so does holding on to the rock. I often use my feet also to take the danger out of climbing. Kind of the way I like it.

 

Those of you who want the danger, man maybe you should climb with blasting caps in your pocket just to jack it up a notch.

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doesn't bother me that people make it safe. it just bothers me when my local crag is over crowded because you don't need a head for it anymore.

 

This is a contradiction. And it's even stranger that you're arguing on behalf of an anchor that makes top-roping and rapping easier/safer.

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doesn't bother me that people make it safe. it just bothers me when my local crag is over crowded because you don't need a head for it anymore.

 

This is a contradiction. And it's even stranger that you're arguing on behalf of an anchor that makes top-roping and rapping easier/safer.

 

i'm talking about you and your stupid fucking stick clip along with your "those anchors are embarrassing" comment. and yes i don't mind when people climb safely and make good decisions and yell rock when they drop one. putting up anchor's or stick clipping does not make climbing safe it just gives novices a false sense of security. anyway isn't stickclipping in essence toproping, and isn't rapping one of the most dangerous things a climber does.

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I knew what you were talking about.

 

There's a big world out there where many folks have taken to rap-bolting face climbs. In a nutshell, this is sport climbing. You might have heard of it, even if you detest it. Many of these routes were intended to have the first bolt stick-clipped. By participating in an activity that was, by design, developed to minimize risk, it is strange to me to forgo a stick-clip if there is the real threat of breaking something from a fall.

 

Of course, it's always about risk assessment. Apparently, you can't fathom that my approach to climbing differs from area to area. That I might possibly stick-clip a route at Smith AND know how to escape a belay miles deep in a wilderness area?

 

I'm glad you like your crag, and I'm sorry if I offended you or others by my "embarrassing" comment. But you seem to want to paint me into some corner and you've got me wrong. I'm not going to get caught into playing some, "I'm more (fill in the blank) than you!"

 

The embarrassing comment was a response to what I perceived to be inconsistencies regarding fixed pro at Beacon. Then you saw that I mentioned a stick clip in this thread and ran with that, as if you have proof that my opinion doesn't count because I climb at a variety of places, and sometimes (gulp) sport climb.

 

I've never been anything but completely honest about my experience in climbing. Not in anything that's come up during the past Beacon threads. Not to strangers. Not to partners. And certainly not behind the comfort of a computer screen.

 

So yeah, I tend to take it personally when someone I don't know (Andrew?) starts laying into me on the internet. Even though I took the time to respond to your post, I must say that I still don't understand what you're talking about. I'm not arguing about what stick-clipping is or that rapping is dangerous. I'm telling you that there are legions of climbers out there, including myself, that clip bolts AND plug gear on a situational basis. So you can spend your time being pissed off about this, or you can be glad that some of these same folks find value in both experiences and want to keep them separate.

 

phillip

 

 

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and a river runs through it

 

Phillip, bet you didn't think that this response would be so definative? Did ya?

 

:lmao:

 

PS, you'er OK for a goat, we all know it. Relax dude.

 

Edited to add: I'm trying to be nice here as I do not own a stick clip and may have need to borrow one at some point. You might not have seen through my strategy though had I just been quiet about it. :crosseye:

 

Hmmmm

Edited by billcoe
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