kevbone Posted July 5, 2007 Share Posted July 5, 2007 I wonder when Jim with authorize a bolt to go in there? Most likely never. I think the pro is crap and most of the holds flex as you pull on then. If you whip before you get gear in....you are going for the ride of your life onto a average nut/cam. Since the rest of the route has bolts......this seems the logical place if ever.....just my opinion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markd Posted July 5, 2007 Share Posted July 5, 2007 i love the butthole pitch! Â imho, if a bolt got added there one of the two previous bolts on the pitch should be taken out. as it is i don't clip the crux bolt because of the perfect 1 camalot to the side of it - also makes the rope run smoother. Â great route. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted July 5, 2007 Share Posted July 5, 2007 why don't we move this discussion to e-mail. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted July 5, 2007 Share Posted July 5, 2007 Definitely no bolt is required there - there is a bolt below and a perfect cam in the slot above, no need for anything inbetween. If anything, when is Jim going to authorize the removal of half the bolts on p1? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted July 5, 2007 Share Posted July 5, 2007 Definitely no bolt is required there - there is a bolt below and a perfect cam in the slot above, no need for anything inbetween. If anything, when is Jim going to authorize the removal of half the bolts on p1? Â Bolt below? You mean 12 feet below you. That does you no good while climbing on loose holds. Â We all know Jim will never fix the route to our personal standards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted July 5, 2007 Share Posted July 5, 2007 this should be kept private among you locals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink_chalk Posted July 6, 2007 Share Posted July 6, 2007 Beacon opened?!?! I need to quit work and get a real life... Â My shoulder is strong enough to climb the SE Corner. PM me for belay services! Â JenO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stewart Posted July 6, 2007 Share Posted July 6, 2007 Kevin, all the bolts should be removed, not another one added. The thrill of the potential ride is what makes it great. In my opinion.   Sorry pink   Stewart Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phillygoat Posted July 7, 2007 Share Posted July 7, 2007 I'd like to start the 'clean-up' by removing the mid-route anchor on Free For Some. This thing is embarrassing, yo! Â phillip Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markd Posted July 7, 2007 Share Posted July 7, 2007 I'd like to start the 'clean-up' by removing the mid-route anchor on Free For Some. This thing is embarrassing, yo! phillip  i've said that for years! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted July 7, 2007 Share Posted July 7, 2007 I'd like to start the 'clean-up' by removing the mid-route anchor on Free For Some. This thing is embarrassing, yo! phillip  embarrassing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted July 8, 2007 Share Posted July 8, 2007 I'd like to start the 'clean-up' by removing the mid-route anchor on Free For Some. This thing is embarrassing, yo! phillip  embarrassing?  How is it embarrassing? And to who? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phillygoat Posted July 9, 2007 Share Posted July 9, 2007 I was being flippant. (note the use of Ebonics) Â My point is that: for all of the hubbub over anchors, the single protection bolt that Joseph added then removed, the Dod's tree, etc., this mid-route top-rope anchor is allowed to remain on a beautiful, stellar line in one of the most heavily trafficked areas at Beacon. Â Doesn't that seem odd to you? Â phillip Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug_Hutchinson Posted July 9, 2007 Share Posted July 9, 2007 I wonder when Jim with authorize a bolt to go in there? Most likely never. I think the pro is crap and most of the holds flex as you pull on then. If you whip before you get gear in....you are going for the ride of your life onto a average nut/cam. Since the rest of the route has bolts......this seems the logical place if ever.....just my opinion. Â The missing flake makes for an almost pure mantle that will have most wanting another piece above the crux bolt that Markd described not clipping (that bolt was added later but why is it so high and left? You basically need to do half the crux to clip it). You can place nuts or small cams in the crack left and below the mantle before mantling and moving into the bhole ("pod" is another name for this feature). Â Huge blocks are missing where you used to step from the p1 chains to move the belay below the bhole pitch. I like p2 less and less each year. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted July 9, 2007 Share Posted July 9, 2007 Â Huge blocks are missing where you used to step from the p1 chains to move the belay below the bhole pitch. I like p2 less and less each year. Â I second that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted July 9, 2007 Share Posted July 9, 2007 Actually, four big blocks are missing from where you used to step around from one anchor to the other (two on that level, one above, and a really big one below). Personally I find p2 a much, much cleaner and interesting line in its current form than it ever was previously. It makes it far nicer to run p1 and p2 into a single pitch, the new dihedral is more interesting, and the mantle is now more pure. To each his own I guess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markd Posted July 9, 2007 Share Posted July 9, 2007 Â Huge blocks are missing where you used to step from the p1 chains to move the belay below the bhole pitch. I like p2 less and less each year. Â I second that. Â emabarassing is a strong word so why don't we just look at it for what it is: the only column at beacon that has a hanging belay in the middle of it. no more no less. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted July 9, 2007 Share Posted July 9, 2007 y-day rawked - a whole armada of soloists n' a cool breeze Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markd Posted July 9, 2007 Share Posted July 9, 2007 y-day rawked - a whole armada of soloists n' a cool breeze  soloing again, ivan? you crazy  Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted July 9, 2007 Share Posted July 9, 2007 y-day rawked - a whole armada of soloists n' a cool breeze  How will your kids feel if you fall off and die? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crimper Posted July 9, 2007 Share Posted July 9, 2007 kev, you have been soloing on beacon this year, and you have a beautiful baby boy - so why challenge ivan unless you are, once again, trolling? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted July 10, 2007 Share Posted July 10, 2007 y-day rawked - a whole armada of soloists n' a cool breeze  How will your kids feel if you fall off and die? relieved that they won't have to grow up w/ an asshole for a father?  or perhaps just embarrased that their pop's managed to kill hisself while climbing the corner? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted July 10, 2007 Author Share Posted July 10, 2007 relieved that they won't have to grow up w/ an asshole for a father? Â Ivan dude, you have the mental capacity and the werewithall to wake up every morning and make that a true statement...or not. Â It is a choice YOU can make. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted July 10, 2007 Share Posted July 10, 2007 Dr. Coe has spoken again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted July 12, 2007 Share Posted July 12, 2007 relieved that they won't have to grow up w/ an asshole for a father?  Ivan dude, you have the mental capacity and the werewithall to wake up every morning and make that a true statement...or not.  It is a choice YOU can make. ahhh...irony is wasted on the interweb  everyone knows i'm the coolest dad ever! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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